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Tips Dabbing Temperatures

Do you like high or low temp dabbing?

  • I like high temp dabbing.

    Votes: 1 11.1%
  • I like low temp dabbing.

    Votes: 7 77.8%
  • I like to dab with a cold start.

    Votes: 1 11.1%
  • I just throw the dab on and hope for the best.

    Votes: 2 22.2%

  • Total voters
    9

momofthegoons

Vapor Accessory Addict
Staff member
After reading much discussion in the D-nail thread, I thought it might be a good idea to get a thread going on what temperatures we all feel are good for dabbing our meds. Personally, I like to stay right around 510°F on my D-nail with a quartz banger. I find that anything higher tends to burn the concentrates and creates a more harsh draw that makes me cough more. I also love being able to taste the flavor profiles in my concentrate and find that the lower temps facilitate this.

I only use quartz bangers. So one question is... do you find that different nails use different temps? Or do you use the Sic dishes at the same temp as quartz or Ti? Tell me your experiences.....

I also found this article that speaks to starting cold when dabbing. More food for thought..... and a great pic of a lovely dab. :biggrin:

The Quest for the Perfect Dab

Are cold starts the next step in the evolution of low-temperature dabbing?

NEW-SAPP-Photo_cred_Ry_Prichard.jpg


The art of consuming concentrates has undergone several evolutions over the years. Each advancement in dabbing has improved the efficiency of the experience, leading to more flavorful dabs as well as a more convenient cleanup. This evolution is probably best illustrated by the massive shift that occurred when connoisseurs first stepped away from hot dabs off of metal nails and moved on to new techniques in the quest for flavor.

When the first amber-colored extracts surfaced, concentrate fans were happy just to have a way to consume them—even if it meant using a harsh red-hot knife. The hot-knife concept was the basis for the first bongs made for concentrate consumption. These were made with skillets, which were like hot plates directly under a tube that filtered vapors through water for cooler, larger hits.

The next innovation in concentrate consumption represented a step forward and two steps back. It was a nail that fit into male joints with a borosilicate globe or dome around it to partially keep the vapor from escaping. This required glass water pipes to be made with male joints for the first time.

Additionally, the dome would have to be removed before each dab, and it would sometimes get stuck once oil built up in the joint. Thanks to the mess and extra steps it required, it didn’t take long for domes and nails to be replaced by the simplified, all-in-one domeless nail.

This is when the transition to lower-temperature dabs for flavor and comfort began. People started to let their domeless nails cool for some time after heating them up, which made hits less harsh. The carb cap was then introduced to allow vaporization to occur at a lower temperature for smoother, tastier dabs. Caps helped reduce the size of puddles left behind on the nail without compromising on flavor.

The Eternal Quartz banger with an insert.

The Eternal Quartz banger with an insert/ High Times


Another step in the quest for better-tasting dabs was the introduction of quartz in place of titanium and ceramic nails. On top of improving flavor, quartz nails provided an easier-to-clean surface.

Another major shift occurred when the glass artist Quave took the nail design a step further by introducing the quartz club banger (see photo)—the shape made it easy to insert a Q-tip inside for smoother cleanups, and it retained heat for longer-lasting low-temperature dabs. The quartz club banger’s top (the bucket) was cut at a 45-degree angle, inspiring tons of copycats for some time before the next step in the evolution of low-temperature dabbing—the thermal banger.

Pukinbeagle Glass introduced us to the thermal banger with a jacketed design. It was the first such device that used a bucket within a bucket. Thermal bangers also introduced us to the concept of flat tops and bubble caps.

While popular, this design had a flaw: Oil could leak between the two layers of quartz (the bucket within a bucket). Fortunately, quartz makers took the advantages of the thermal banger and tweaked the design. As a result, most bangers today feature flat tops without the jacketed design, and most dabbers use bubble caps.

Now most low-temperature dabs are dropped after heating all around the bucket of a quartz banger for close to a minute and after another minute or longer for things to cool down. The temperature starts high and rapidly decreases after the extract is dropped and vaporizes.

The ideal temperature for a full-flavored dab can range from 350 to 500°F. Unfortunately, most bangers don’t have the heat retention to stay in that range for long enough to completely vaporize a dab. As a result, puddles containing leftover terps and THC can be left behind, especially after big globs. Reheating the puddle to completion usually results in a harsh, flavorless hit. Even with a carb cap, you’ll usually end up sacrificing some of your concentrate with low-temp dabbing.

To completely finish a dab in one go, you’d have to drop the oil in earlier while the nail is hotter. That sounds reasonable; however, the problem is that THC boils off at 315°F, and most terpenes boil off at a much lower temperature than that. To finish a dab, you would be dropping it in while the nail is well over 500°F.

In addition to the harshness of dabbing at such high temperatures, a lot of your terpenes and cannabinoids will be scorched before they can add to the flavor and potency of your dab. Not to mention that research from Portland State University published in the journal ACS Omega found that dabbing at temperatures above 600°F could result in the release of noxious chemicals.


The OG Quartz banger with custom carb cap/ High Times


Fortunately, the latest step in the evolution of dabbing resolves this issue. Cold starts are like reverse dabs. Instead of getting a surface raging hot and waiting to drop the hash in, the extract is added to the surface while it’s still cold. The temperature is then gradually increased. This practice prevents waste while preserving flavor, time and butane with the proper tools. It’s a simple but effective method, and more and more products are being made with this concept in mind.

Taking some inspiration from the inner bucket of the Pukinbeagle thermal design, Eternal Quartz made a removable quartz bucket so it could be cleaned or used on different bangers. Shortly after creating these “quartz inserts,” the company started experimenting with different ways of taking “meltshot” videos. That’s when Eternal first tried out the “insert drop” technique and cold-start dabbing commenced.

The insert-drop method allows the temperature of the concentrate within the quartz insert to slowly increase as heat transfers from the outer layer of the heated banger. This causes vapor production to last longer than it would with traditional low-temperature dabs.

To do a cold-start dab with an insert, you need to put your hash in the insert and set it aside. Heat the bucket of your banger as you normally would and, after waiting a bit, drop in the insert. The wait time depends on the size of your dab and the heat retention of your banger. It can be anywhere from five to 40 seconds. On your final pull, the oil should be much darker and tackier than when it started.

After Eternal Quartz got things started for cold-start dabbing, other companies took the idea and ran with it. Riding the cold-start wave, OG Quartz created a banger design with an eye on convenience. The OG Quartz banger’s walls are three millimeters thick with a wide and curvy bottom that is easier to Q-tip than any other banger on the market. You’ll need a cap from OG as well. The inner wall of the flat top and the carb caps designed for the banger are tapered for proper seals. The stem reaches deep into the banger with a 45-degree cut at the end, which allows airflow to tornado through, constantly spinning the oil around the bottom of the bucket.

The carb cap’s wide diameter, combined with the bucket’s shorter diameter, thick walls, curved sides and dense bottom, allow for heat to transfer slowly enough through the banger to provide flavor without burning.

To do a cold start with an OG Quartz banger, you can either load your hash onto the end of the carb cap or onto the bottom of the bucket. Depending on the type of extract you’re using (less heat for rosin, more for THCA crystals) and the strength of your torch, you’ll need to heat the bottom of the banger for about five to eight seconds before the first hit. The oil should begin to bubble and vaporize when you inhale.

The cap is designed to be cleared like the bongs OG Quartz has been making for 22 years—well before dab rigs were a thing. When vapor stops forming, there might still be a puddle. After the initial hit, you can provide three-to-five-second bursts of heat to finish off the remainder. This method will save the dabbing community tons on butane as it only takes 15 to 20 seconds of heating to finish an entire dab. With the proper amount of torching, you should get all the flavor and potency in the extract without any burning.


The Peak by Puffco allows users to perform cold starts for flavorful dabs/ High Times

The concept of cold starts is improving the world of electronic vaporizers for concentrates as well. In fact, the Peak by Puffco takes advantage of cold starts for flavorful dabs, as the device works best when concentrates are preloaded into the ceramic cup before the atomizer is fired. As heat is transferred into the cup, hash oil goes from cold to hot so you can enjoy all of the terpenes that boil off along the way. If there is anything worth vaping left behind, you can hit the boost setting or reheat the puddle on a lower setting to finish it off without any burning.

Every time we think we’ve found the best method of consumption, a new innovation arrives and changes the game. Cold starts are the latest step, but there will doubtless be a new technique that improves consumption as we continue on our journey to the perfect dab.

Troubleshooting Tips

If you taste burning oil and everything on the banger is too dried up to be easily Q-tipped, you dropped your dab in while the bucket was too hot. However, if you’re not getting much vaporization and a huge puddle is left behind after your dab, you waited too long. Experiment to find the perfect-temperature dab.

While insert drops provide some of the most rewarding dabs in terms of flavor and vapor production in one heat-up, there are additional steps and tools involved with cleanup. It helps to have reverse tweezers, a shot glass full of isopropyl alcohol and paper towels on hand to get the job done quickly.
 

felvapes

Well-Known Member
Interesting
I remember asking shane about using inserts this way as I saw a video doing it
He said to leave insert in all the time so never got to try this

I could try with my halo

I have been usually doing a small version of this now
I have no pearls ATM in my sic
So heat is set to 650, but I drop the dab in at 5-550 usually and finish by the time it's hit 650

I think when my pearls turn up I can drop the temp more


I get most of my flavours this way (except any missed according to article) and get to finish all of my dab without endless wisping of vapour

I can't remember properly the difference in my temps between the QB and halo as I haven't used the QB for ages
I do think I used QB a bit lower - the coil covers the bottom and sides though so this may have something to do with that
Plus I have pearls with my QB
 

Shredder

Dogs like me
I'm a low temp dabber, and my only nail is a sic halo. As much as I enjoy it, I think portable dab rigs that can provide tasty low temp dabs with little clean up are our future.

Just like desktop herb vapes, portables are taking over.

I have 5 medical mj patients. Only one has a nail, exclusively uses rosin and about 95% in portables.

3 use pens with rosin on occasion, but mostly herb, and one is herbs only.

I doubt any of the three pen users would pay for a dab rig and nice water pipe. They're not rich but I could see them getting a lower cost portable dab rig.

As evidence a few years ago I bought them all ssv's. And more recently bought them F2's. As far as I know all but one uses the F2's, but none still use the ssv's.
 

felvapes

Well-Known Member
I'm a low temp dabber, and my only nail is a sic halo. As much as I enjoy it, I think portable dab rigs that can provide tasty low temp dabs with little clean up are our future.

Just like desktop herb vapes, portables are taking over.

I have 5 medical mj patients. Only one has a nail, exclusively uses rosin and about 95% in portables.

3 use pens with rosin on occasion, but mostly herb, and one is herbs only.

I doubt any of the three pen users would pay for a dab rig and nice water pipe. They're not rich but I could see them getting a lower cost portable dab rig.

As evidence a few years ago I bought them all ssv's. And more recently bought them F2's. As far as I know all but one uses the F2's, but none still use the ssv's.
I wouldn't use an SSV much either as I hate whips

Yet to find a portable as good as my halo

I am interested in the Sai you speak of

But nothing is as good as a QB or halo dab as of yet for me - I like rosin in my mighty or dv etc but not really my go to for rosin

I do want to try a Sai or similar

My WS is going nowhere nor is my halo yet

I do use desktops less though now


But yea my dab temps are as per my last post


Has anyone here tried those puffco peaks ?
My eye has caught that a few times
 

Shredder

Dogs like me
Has anyone here tried those puffco peaks ?
My eye has caught that a few times

No I haven't, but I noticed portable dab rigs are in two groups.

Portable nails for quick sessions and load and go sip types.

I would say a peak is a nail type be while my sai, at least how I use it with donut coils is a sipper. Although with a bucket coil it's more like a nail. It's a platform that can be outfitted a number of ways.

A cart vape would be a sipper, but with obvious problems because of the things needed to make the concentrate flow. I think eventually this will be worked out.
 

momofthegoons

Vapor Accessory Addict
Staff member
I'd like to try to keep this thread more focused on the dabbing temps so that it can serve as a guide...

Detailed convo and comparisons of the Puffco Peak should go in the Puffco thread, however, I will say that there have been a ton of problems with it. And there is currently a class action suit against Puffco regarding all of the repairs and failures of the unit. So you might want to pass on it until they can get their shit together.
 

Shredder

Dogs like me
I'd like to try to keep this thread more focused on the dabbing temps so that it can serve as a guide...

Detailed convo and comparisons of the Puffco Peak should go in the Puffco thread, however, I will say that there have been a ton of problems with it. And there is currently a class action suit against Puffco regarding all of the repairs and failures of the unit. So you might want to pass on it until they can get their shit together.

How would you define low or high temps?

Is xxx°F high or low?

For me 550°F is my high range using my sic halo. For someone else this might be considered low.
 

felvapes

Well-Known Member
I'd like to try to keep this thread more focused on the dabbing temps so that it can serve as a guide...

Detailed convo and comparisons of the Puffco Peak should go in the Puffco thread, however, I will say that there have been a ton of problems with it. And there is currently a class action suit against Puffco regarding all of the repairs and failures of the unit. So you might want to pass on it until they can get their shit together.
Okay
I didn't need it anyway...lol
I won't bother either
Cheers
How would you define low or high temps?

Is xxx°F high or low?

For me 550°F is my high range using my sic halo. For someone else this might be considered low.
I would assume we go via the article

But I'd think generally high as in high is 700 - 999

Mid is 500 - 700

Low is below 500 ?

Kind of a guess but I also think I read something similar when I was reading about how anything above approx 750 is starting to combust and release carcinogens

Where you actually like to have it within your personal temps will vary per person I guess

Personally much below 500 is too low and the dab just keeps going

So I'd call anything below

500 not enough

5-550 low temp

550 - 650 mid temp

650 - 750 high

Above 750 combustion
 

psychonaut

Florist
Company Rep
The lower the better for me, really get some interesting flavors you just cant pick up at higher temperatures. However, I won't trade off vapor production for flavor, there has to be a balance IMO. Right now my dhgate enail is giving me dish temps around 460-470 with the PID controller set at 580F. Some say this is high temp, I dont really get that high temp tight chest feeling unless I am around 650F+
 

felvapes

Well-Known Member
The lower the better for me, really get some interesting flavors you just cant pick up at higher temperatures. However, I won't trade off vapor production for flavor, there has to be a balance IMO. Right now my dhgate enail is giving me dish temps around 460-470 with the PID controller set at 580F. Some say this is high temp, I dont really get that high temp tight chest feeling unless I am around 650F+
I have been quoting my auber reading temps not my dish temps
I have not put my ir thermometer on my halo to check actual temps
Terp balls will give me a drop again so I should be closer to you then I think

We all agree that 650+ is high then ATM
 

psychonaut

Florist
Company Rep
I have been quoting my auber reading temps not my dish temps
I have not put my ir thermometer on my halo to check actual temps
Terp balls will give me a drop again so I should be closer to you then I think

We all agree that over 650+ is high then ATM

I use a cheap k-type thermocouple, it's very accurate I also test my heat press plates with them. I try and reference dish and PID temps because there's usually a delta difference between dishes and electronics.


 

felvapes

Well-Known Member

Baron23

Well-Known Member
@momofthegoons - In my personal experience, there is NO particularly useful, single, set point, temp. IME, the temp I run varies from device to device (e.g. Liger Ti banger with Obsidian insert to 710coils quartz banger) and to some degree concentrate purchase to concentrate purchase.

And I do agree that set points on a controller are for the most part only useful as relative temps and you need to actually measure, with K-type thermo, if you want to know what your dab surface temp actually is.

I did this table some time ago when I got a D-nail Halo and was finding that I needed to run it at much higher set point temps than my Liger. The delta temperature between set point and dab surface was just greater. I haven't taken these measurments for a while....you have to sit there holding the thermocouple for a goodly number of minutes until it finally settles down (and very fast, high temp, thermos are VERY expensive)

Pic of Delta's w new flat coil .JPG
 

LesPlenty

Well-Known Member
I am sitting on or just over 500f on PID, Sic Halo and 1xSiC Comet, got above temp gauge on order, thanks for the tip @psychonaut, and I paid 5 cents more for mine befoe I saw @felvapes link.

Edit; Getting the above will put me off getting the following that I have had my eye on for a while;
1564579289245.png
 
Last edited:

felvapes

Well-Known Member
I am sitting on or just over 500f on PID, Sic Halo and 1xSiC Comet, got above temp gauge on order, thanks for the tip @psychonaut, and I paid 5 cents more for mine befoe I saw @felvapes link.
Mine ships from China
I think the other link shipped from USA

The postal race is on....lol
 

felvapes

Well-Known Member
I am sitting on or just over 500f on PID, Sic Halo and 1xSiC Comet, got above temp gauge on order, thanks for the tip @psychonaut, and I paid 5 cents more for mine befoe I saw @felvapes link.

Edit; Getting the above will put me off getting the following that I have had my eye on for a while;
View attachment 11548


That thermo one looks like a nice toy....
Costly though
 

LesPlenty

Well-Known Member
So I just had my memory jogged by @psychonaut about different probes and just found the TypeK coupler to turn my non-contact into a contact thermometer, anyway 500f PID=471f TypeK meter in the alley of the SiC Dish.
 

felvapes

Well-Known Member
So I just had my memory jogged by @psychonaut about different probes and just found the TypeK coupler to turn my non-contact into a contact thermometer, anyway 500f PID=471f TypeK meter in the alley of the SiC Dish.
So your pid and coil is working a lot better and closer to true than barons testing showed
Be interesting to see how my 300 goes with a single layer coil
 

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