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As usual, Puffco hit the nail on the head with airflow on the ball cap and it is like a Playstation controller joystick to use. I have other carb caps that seal like a standard banger just fine but I just end up with the PPP on instead for some reason, maybe for ease of use and not worrying about the seal with a normal silicon-less carb cap as it is pretty small.
 
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It's just been designed, not out yet
I just got him to make the neck bend back a bit further for keeping your head level
There is also an incycler happening maybe some other designs
If people have ideas or drawings they should hit John up he is open to suggestions
 
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I also have an empty base/case that I was going to use to get a local blower to make some glass options
But now John is open to taking designs and will make them with his factory if people message him with pictures as an idea - so get drawing if you think of anything

But I opened the case and when ever your batteries eventually die it will be a simple enough procedure to replace them by the looks (until a version two is designed with replaceable batteries)

Under the non slip pad on the bottom of the unit there are two screws
The bottom part comes outwards and the top is a latch type join you pull the body down and off
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IMG20221129171529.jpg

There is the two halves of the case and an insert that takes the majority of everything
You can see where the batteries go and there are four corner screw holes where the circuit board and LCD would lie and screw on top of the battery compartment
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Here you can see the airpath is fully isolated - the silicone has a tube that the glass tube will slip in (and the other side would have the same with its silicone
There is a square housing around the glass tube further isolating from circuitry etc
You can see the silicone that hold the glass is form fit to the case and no glue or adhesive has been used
The led light chip board would slide under the silicone and power/thermocouple wires would run from the atty joint (also nicely isolated when silicone in place) above the batteries and under the airpath section to the circuit board
IMG20221129171907.jpg
IMG20221129171916.jpg

And here mock up with batteries in place
I didn't realise they were horizontal
I thought they were in the rounded ends and vertical
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So two screws underneath and four screws to take the circuit board/LCD off from covering the batteries and you should be able to access and swap out dead 18650s in the future without too much trouble
I haven't seen the insides of one with the circuit boards or anything though
Actually quite good use of space really

Also the bug fixed unit I have has been working flawlessly so far with no issues or bugs at all
60 puffs in so far on this one
BF sales over but PKTY15 still works

Sorry I should have edited the last comment mods, please merge if needed

EDIT
Here is the two new bubbler designs with the neck bent back more so yours won't have to
 
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If people want a stealth mode you can diy a version
Cut a circle of any safe material (silicone would be best) that is thin and dark and place it on the white silicone bottom where the bubbler goes
Put bubbler on top

Stealth mode activated

The tiniest bit of light can be seen on the edge of the base of the glass
But it's pretty hidden and stealthy, especially in comparison to stock
 
My whip adaptor arrived
Nice for using other bubblers or I use it with an MP as pictured
Could use hydrotubes too

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Short version too
IMG20221208164435.jpg


Or this was my go to before this whip adaptor arrived
The bends made it smooth and the flavour was there without water
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https://jcvap.com/

Christmas sale from 14 Dec for 25% off storewide
PKTY15 should be stackable for an extra 15% off on checkout

Good time to get ya accessories or a pockety for 40% off again
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Saw a couple people who have not been cleaning their chambers regularly and the heater and outside of dish are getting things stuck together and damage them pulling apart
I'm talking over 300/400 dabs without a clean so a lot of reclaim
I would clean the chamber and pockety base a lot more often than this to prevent any build up

I saw prototypes of the new bubblers
The neck is not bent as far back as the cgi is
Still an upgrade from the stock bubbler for some people
 
Christmas sale from 14 Dec for 25% off storewide
PKTY15 should be stackable for an extra 15% off on checkout
Dammit thats tempting....
 
Dammit thats tempting....
Do it, it is a great experience!
I have 30 dabs on my Ruby insert now and am very impressed. I cannot get over how well it dry q-tips clean. I am low temp dabber normally but had a friend visit that 'accidentally' increased the temp to the max before passing the unit back to me to finish the dab as they were full on one puff (I am generous with my friend's dab size). I reinstalled my Puffco witches hat silicon glass topper and hit the unit once it buzzed and had a huge cloud that was surprising but not unenjoyable. The remaining poop simply q-tipped out dry!
I do iso q-tip once the display drops to >50c on occasion and it gets the terp ball a little cleaner.
 
Okay so I had a yarn with John
He had a bit of a headache fixing up the website again
He had a second round of attacks (none get through as he upgraded security since the last one)
But must be some jelly competitors out there

Anyway
Here's the upgraded info on sales

Chrissy sale until JAN5 for 20% off storewide

The code PKTY15 can be stacked on pockety gear for an extra 10% off equalling 30% off total

After JAN 5 the code PKTY15 will return to 15% off
 
So I have a cleaning question.... when you guys soak the bottom half of the heating chamber.... do you completely submerge it or do you put it in just enough ISO to cover the little holes at the bottom?

I cleaned mine the other day but didn't submerge it. Just q-tipped out the interior where the dish sits. Now I'm noticing staining on that white dish... and I have a feeling that something didn't get cleaned properly. Performance isn't affected. It's just stained; which is no biggie. But I want to make sure I'm cleaning this properly.

Lol..... and I also just had the infamous 'reset' happen to me. I managed to hit one of those temps where the unit doesn't shut off (515℉) and sure nuff...
 
So I have a cleaning question.... when you guys soak the bottom half of the heating chamber.... do you completely submerge it or do you put it in just enough ISO to cover the little holes at the bottom?

I cleaned mine the other day but didn't submerge it. Just q-tipped out the interior where the dish sits. Now I'm noticing staining on that white dish... and I have a feeling that something didn't get cleaned properly. Performance isn't affected. It's just stained; which is no biggie. But I want to make sure I'm cleaning this properly.

Lol..... and I also just had the infamous 'reset' happen to me. I managed to hit one of those temps where the unit doesn't shut off (515℉) and sure nuff...
The heater can get some stains no worries but build up or reclaim needs cleaning
I submerge the entire lower half of the chamber with the heater in place
You can put it in a ziplock bag with iso and shake too for cleaning
Then water rinse

Iso qtip the heater (in/out) and threads too and the outside of the insert as well as the inside

The top half of the chamber can be iso qtipped clean
Or it is possible to pull the silicone off and the oring and ceramic ring out for further cleaning if you wish

Yea the reset seems so random, there still has been no one common event before it happens found yet
Good news for potential buyers my bug fixed unit has not yet shown any bugs or issues so far
 
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I submerged the whole atty in 100% iso in an ultrasonic bath, did not kill it, cleans up well.
I have the AIN cup in SimpleGrenn soaking...somewhere, just found it, thanks for the reminder @momofthegoons
It still looks like a pirates tooth so I will keep soaking it as I am in no hurry as I am enjoying the ruby. The AIN may end up needing a torch clean whereas the ruby may never need more than a q-tip, so far!
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