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Meds How to dab your flower rosin and keep your nail clean too

psychonaut

psychonaut

Florist
Company Rep
Flower rosin, especially buds pressed without a filter, usually contain some plant matter, and most definitely contains fats, waxes and lipids in the finished dabbable product. As amazing as flower rosin smells and tastes, a bit of your yield is these types of plant matter. Because of this, there are some causes and effects of vaporizing this material, one of which is a dirty nail! In stark contrast, material that has been highly refined or sifted, leaves little residue on the nail which is due in part to it's purity (distillate, 6-star hash, isolate).

Does the nail have to get dirty? :shakehead:

So how does the nail get dirty when vaporizing flower rosin? By vaporizing the flower rosin at hotter than ideal temperatures. Not swabbing up the waste (melted fats, lipids, waxes, non-active matter) soon enough, and also suboptimal cleaning regime.

How to keep the nail clean using flower rosin? It all depends on your nail, some are much easier to clean than others. Usually keeping your nail surface temperature in the <450F range will vaporize all of the terpenes and cannabinoids while leaving the rest of the waxes and such to be swabbed up usually with a cotton swab. Using some distilled water on a cotton swab will steam clean the nail. Having done this on both SiC nails and quartz, with no problems. :thumbsup:

Whenever your nail starts to get too dirty, deep clean. For a heavy user this could take a few days to a week.:treadmill:
 
Well @psychonaut you've made two points of interest for me. One is I'm dabbing my rosin way too hot it would appear. I've been setting my nail around 550°F and have noticed that it does seem to dirty the nail up really fast.

The other is that you are using distilled water rather than ISO to clean afterwards.
 
momofthegoons said:
Well @psychonaut you've made two points of interest for me. One is I'm dabbing my rosin way too hot it would appear. I've been setting my nail around 550°F and have noticed that it does seem to dirty the nail up really fast.

The other is that you are using distilled water rather than ISO to clean afterwards.
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If your nail is set at 550F there is likely a difference at the surface. In my instance, I have my enail set at 580F but the dnail SiC halo on the slim base, temp on the dish is 465F.

I think the distilled water will do it. I dont know what it is about distilled water, a good friend over on FC got me using it and it seems that the left over crud that the dry swab leaves releases with the steam and sticks to the qtip giving a really clean finish in the trench. The sidewalls on the other hand tend to get dirtier, at least for me, maybe because I power it up for each session. I have a little stainless steel condiment cup from the kitchen I put about 2oz of distilled water in it and leave it near my vape station, it gets used up in about a week or two. Cheap cleaner!
 
And this works as well for quartz? I'm definitely going to try it. I hate using the ISO. Too many fumes.

However, I have a nifty little q-tip and ISO (or whatever you want to use) container that will be sporting some distilled water in the near future. :biggrin:
 
momofthegoons said:
And this works as well for quartz? I'm definitely going to try it. I hate using the ISO. Too many fumes.

However, I have a nifty little q-tip and ISO (or whatever you want to use) container that will be sporting some distilled water in the near future. :biggrin:
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Yes, but at an unknown temperature. Maybe a much hotter quartz can have issues with the steam cleaning?

I generally will torch heat my 25mm banger for 30 seconds (blazer big shot torch), let it cool for 50 seconds, then take my dab, it's done in about 2 breaths. I then immediately dry swab until it looks clean, then do a wet swab right afterwards, the water will boil off and bubble in the nail, eventually it will stop bubbling and you can dry up all the water. The sidewalls will get somewhat dirty, not really sure how to stop that, but usually a warmed simple green soak for a couple hours in deep clean helps bring back the sparkle.
 
psychonaut said:
I generally will torch heat my 25mm banger for 30 seconds (blazer big shot torch), let it cool for 50 seconds, then take my dab, it's done in about 2 breaths. I then immediately dry swab until it looks clean, then do a wet swab right afterwards, the water will boil off and bubble in the nail, eventually it will stop bubbling and you can dry up all the water. The sidewalls will get somewhat dirty, not really sure how to stop that, but usually a warmed simple green soak for a couple hours in deep clean helps bring back the sparkle.
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Ah... well I use an enail so the surface temp isn't going to go down like it would using a torch.

I'll also soak in Simple Green; usually overnight. Most of the gunk comes off but often there will be a stubborn ring around the banger that I have to torch off (with my Blazer Big Shot :tongue:... best torch out there!).

I can't imagine that the distilled water (if at room temp) would be a problem in the banger though... perhaps @710 coils can weigh in with his opinion next time he comes around. :smile: I know he usually soaks his in warm Simple Green in a dish on top of a candle warmer.
 
momofthegoons said:
Ah... well I use an enail so the surface temp isn't going to go down like it would using a torch.

I'll also soak in Simple Green; usually overnight. Most of the gunk comes off but often there will be a stubborn ring around the banger that I have to torch off (with my Blazer Big Shot :tongue:... best torch out there!).

I can't imagine that the distilled water (if at room temp) would be a problem in the banger though... perhaps @710 coils can weigh in with his opinion next time he comes around. :smile: I know he usually soaks his in warm Simple Green in a dish on top of a candle warmer.
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I think I’ll buy to same torch as U!
 
I have heard people torch cleaning and also soaking and both options appear to work fine. I have not heard of any reports of the quartz getting hazy from the torching and thats all I would be concerned about. One trick is to let it get to under 300 degrees and squirt some room temperature distilled water in and let it bubble some. It seems to work good. I have also found the dirty end of the Qtip to work really well for scrubbing the sidewall messiness when needed.

So basically any of the above would work fine and even the simple green soak is not a bad option as in the end. All roads lead to Rome =)
 
Once in a great while I heat my sic dish up to 900F electrically with my controler. That seems to loosen any crud I missed. When it gets cooler the crud turns gray and is easily removed with the q tip. I imagine this doesn't differ much from heating with a torch.

Normally I just swab after a session with a q tip, and after a few sessions I use a wet q tip. That pretty much takes care of the dishes bottom, but I do eventually get crud on the sides. I only heat it up to 900 a couple times per year, and even then I don't get a lot of crud. The dish itself has been a dream to clean.

I'll add this :

For my stainless steel concentrate pads I clean with pbw. (mighty and fury 2) I put the pads in a small jar then cover with water, and add a teaspoon or so of pbw. I let it sit for a few hours to overnight. Then rinse real well with water and let then dry. The capsules themselves I soak in iso. I tried pbw but it turns the capsules (aluminum) dark, and I tossed them. The pads come out spotless, but you have to rinse them well as tiny bits take a while to find their way out.

I started just soaking the pads in iso, but after a few soaks they start getting darker and get hard to clean. The pbw works great on stainless steel and glass. But it's not good on al, or ti, because it will tarnish them. It's basically just high ph water and is sometimes referred to as slippery water so be careful with your bongs.
 
So..... I personally do not recommend heating your coils beyond 700 degrees. The biggest thing to weaken a coil is prolonged higher than normal temps. This can weaken the 3 wires and the K type sensor that run inside the coil to the tip of coil. I think with SiC you can just torch the shit out of it since it wont hurt it in anyway. But I use the gentle tech of concentrated simple green in a bowl or jar with a loose lid sitting on a candle/mug warmer. 6 hours on that and it rinses clean to look like brand new. No scrubbing, just a good rinse under hot water till the slick feeling is gone =)

Hope everyone is having a great week so far

Shane
 
Tell you what.... I've been dabbing my rosin with the PID set to 520 lately. A real noticeable change in the 'ring around the banger' situation. The banger is staying clean longer and the dabs are much more flavorful. I think I had my temp up way too high for the rosin I'm dabbing. I'm thinking I may even lower it a tad more.
 
Here is something I put together to help people identify what the ideal temp is for them and how to find it

I think of temp as something like a campfire. We all might put our food in different spots for different reasons. But in the end we all get our food cooked the way we prefer (Hopefully) So some like it a little on the warmer side for faster results where others like that slow and low. The temp range we toss around is also determined by what you are dabbing. Wax and other materials prefer a little less heat. Where THCA likes a little more heat.

Here are the main things that will determine the best temps per person

Dab rig you are using and how much air or agitation it does. Less agitation and airflow can help increase the flavor and vapor production and also help to lower your temps

Carb cap you are using. How restrictive or non restrictive is it. More restriction means lower temps and thicker vapor production (typically)

Type of dabs. Wax, Shatter, Sugar, THCA. Wax and lighter type dabs will vaporize faster at lower temps than THCA and Sugar will. So depending on the dab. The temp can make or break the flavor

Type of banger you are using. 25 or 30 and clear or opaque. The 30mm opaque will always vaporize more material at a lower temp than the 25 since it has the extra surface area. But can be too much for some that want a bit less vapor production when dabbing. The clear bangers also work great and are much better at handling messy dab material. They just dont always bring the flavor out as much as the opaque can. But it is also very dependent on the type of dab material being used

Fit of the coil. This is beyond critical as the looser the coil to the banger is. The harder it is to get those lower temps that we all see people calling out.

Type of controller used. All controllers are not created equal. Some will run a bit higher than others and it goes back to preference. What temp tastes and feels the best. You dont want hot irritating dabs and so it comes down to what temp works the best for your controller.

I know this is a lot of my opinion. But I have tried to temper it with as neutral of a view as possible =)

Hope everyone is starting 2019 off with a BANG!!!

Your loyal coil and quartz monger

Shane
 
arb said:
Sorry it is not your post as much as dabbing as a whole.........I am kind of thick about things sometimes.
I think I may need a live demo on this subject.
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I was where you are now a short time ago. You will pick it up fast.

I went from hitting a torched nail once in a great while to buying a dnail with a sic dish. All totaled about $500. And I don't regret it a bit. I could have went a lot cheaper, but I think I'd still end up with a dnail and sic dish. But who knows what's coming up in the future? Things could change.

Having access to rosin was my biggest motivator. And is my favorite to dab. It just tastes better, and you don't have to add terpenes to get that taste.
 
You can get the below for under 300.00

1 x Auber RDK-300 controller
1 x 30mm axial coil
1 x 30mm banger
1 x 30mm ball cap
1 x dab tool

The above is pretty much all you need minus the glass and dabs =)

Once I found the opaque 30mm banger, I knew it was what I had been looking for. The axial coil is a game changer as it does not need to be fit tight to the banger and so its extremely user friendly with use and tear down for the user. Very little chance of breaking bangers and all that is needed is routine cleaning of the banger with a torch bath or possibly a soak in some concentrate simple green on a candle/cup warmer in a jar or bowl with a loose lid. After 4 or so hours of soaking. Will make it like new after a good rinse under hot water
 
710 coils said:
I personally do not recommend heating your coils beyond 700 degrees
Click to expand...
My DNaail flat coil heater has a card with it that says to not exceed 1100f and DNail say to clean the SiC Halo by heating to 900f (I do this every day so I might stretch the times between burnoffs)
 
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