Baron23
Well-Known Member
Ok, I have been promising Mom a review of the NewVape (NV) Flower Pot (FP) for….well, months really. Haha
Basic Configurations
But, there is a lot of different configurations and a lot of history so it has to be more than “yeah, man….I used it and got wrecked” type of review. LOL
Let’s start with a basic general description: The FP is an enail coil/controller based vaporizer system for both dry herb and concentrates. It is all titanium and beautifully machined in the USA by NV who are located in Boyton Beach, FL.
It comes in two basic varieties….the FP with multi-dish that everybody else calls the Wrap Around (WA) and the primarily herb based Shower Head (SH).
NewVape’s FP site, including FAQs, are here: https://www.newvape.com/vape-essentials/flowerpot-twax-vape
Here are two pics cut from NV’s website of the two basic configurations:
The WA:
Wrap Around (WA) Heater Head
The SH:
Shower Head (SH)
The differences are in the heating head design. They both need an enail barrel coil and controller installed on the head, but one is optimized to accept Halo type inserts (quartz or Silicone Carbide…”SiC”) for dabbing but you can dab straight off of the Ti (if you like that taste, which I do not). Both can do flower, both can do concentrate, and both can do both at the same time (double decker hit).
But the WA is optimized for concentrates and the SH is truly a flower machine.
Wrap Around Variations
For the next part of this review, we need to understand the basic parts that make up the WA heater head. Basically looks like this:
WA Heater Head Basic Configuration
The WA comes in two configurations also; 1) for use with the native Ti or it will accept a TAG Silicone Carbide (SiC) insert and a slightly different configuration that will accept the D-nail SiC Halo. Difference is that the D-nail insert has a smaller center post opening so it needs to use the appropriate Wrap-Around Head and Center Post Nut (also called a Coil Nut).
If you want to use the TAG SiC insert (sold by TAG or can be bought from NV directly), then you can the appropriate WA Head (or ‘Post’).
Each of course needs the appropriate coil nut for the diameter of barrel coil you want to use:
NOTE: It would be helpful if NV had a configurator that led you through the steps to select compatible items in order to create a FP system. NV has said that they are working on that, but in the meantime, CALL THEM as they have/continue to make changes to their configurations and what I have here may well be out of date soon (if not already).
The Shower Head
The SH heater head is optimized for flower but, as said, if you want you can dab on the Ti trough at the top. The SH does NOT accept Halo type inserts as its primarily for flower and, as you can see below, the center post air inlet is wider with more holes to optimize airflow in the flower bowl underneath. I own a SH and do not own a WA.
It only comes in 20 mm and I wonder how if NV will continue to offer 16 mm as its just not the most sought after size.
The Body or Bowl Configurations
Any Body (or bowl as this is where your flower/herb go) is compatible with any WA or SH heater head.
The Body also has a bit of a history. First, there was the standard ‘OG’ bodies that, while still on the site, are a bit dated and overtaken by subsequent designs. OG bodies include male and female and 14 and 18 mm joint sizes.
Then came bodies with handles:
You can see the design evolution here and part of that was to address how the f*ck to empty a VERY hot Ti bowl! LOL. So, we got bowls with handles. Note, the handles are “break-way” handles in case it gets stuck in a joint you will break the cheap handle before your expensive glass. He does make a solid handle, with silicon wrapping instead of hemp fiber, which is what I use. Its listed as a separate item on the FP parts page.
But this brought up the next issue. Some peoples male body w-handles never stick. Mine stuck every time. It’s simply the expansion of the Ti in the glass joint. Once it cooled down again, it came off perfectly. But how to empty the bowl if it’s stuck in a piece of glass with water in it. Well, I always use a drop down with any of this sort of kit and found it very easy to use the drop down as an extended handle for the bowl. Forget taking the bowl out of the drop down joint (wasn’t happening), just pick the drop down up out of the joint on your water piece and use it to hold when emptying the bowl.
But I’m not the only one who had this issue of sticking…far from it, it was very common. So, NV attempted to address this with two piece Pan Head and Shovel Head (familiar terms to Harley aficionados). The ONLY difference between the two of them is aesthetics…just superficial exterior design. However, they do have a difference from the OG Handle Bodies shown above….the new two piece’s screen depth is 2.5 mm deeper than the OG Handle Body and is equal to the screen depth of the OG bowl (non-handled). Some customers wanted this as they wanted a bigger load size. I prefer the shallower bowl as it puts the load closer to the heat source so a lower coil temp can be used. With the Pan Head and its 2.5 mm deeper bowl, I upped my coil set point temps about 40 F but you will need to experiment as people are all over the maps with FP temps depending on how they like to vape (it’s a very flexible and versatile design).
So, below are the Pan and Shovel head two piece bodies. Note, their handle has a hole in it to insert a small dowel or screw driver to use as leverage to tighten it. As far as I know, they only come in male fittings as the female didn’t have the sticking problem (for obvious reasons) so there was no need for a fix. How this works is you drop a post (14 or 18 mm) into the joint on your water piece until it’s firmly seated. Then gently drop your bowl over the post until it rests against the top of the glass joint. Insert handle and screw the two pieces together. This really did solve the sticking problem. Early versions sometimes had a small air leak that slightly diluted the vapor, but considering this is the ‘bong’ of vaporizers even a small amount of dilution was considered unacceptable. Small tweaks to the design (e.g. getting rid of the key way on the posts) eliminated that issue.
What Else Do I Need?
Well, you don’t need a carb cap but I use one every time and to me it makes the same difference, and for the same reasons, as we use a cap on a dab rig. I use the cap for flower only bowls as I can reduce temperature on the coil and get thicker vapor. If you have sensitive lungs, perhaps do without the cap but you will probably get somewhat thinner vapor (but we are talking about a relative difference when already starting with a smoke stack of a vape! Haha).
Carb Caps - He makes three different carb caps:
1. Lollicap for WA . Note, the handle can screw on in either a vertical or horizontal orientation (th
2. For the Showerhead, NV offers two caps, one very much like the Lollicap and another design made out of Ti which seems to be preferred by owners (and I certainly like it the best)
3. Threaded Loading Tool – rather than the little dab handle that comes with the carb caps, I recommend either the threaded loading tool that will replace that on the cap, or at least get their Pax Loading Tool as this is the best scoop in the business, IMO, and fits into a lot of vape ovens. Highly recommend these items.
4. Coil Cover – do you need a coil cover….no. Should you get one, hell yeah. Keeps the heat in and reduces the delta temps between set point and actual heater head temp.
5. Enail PID Controller and Coil – you need to drive this thing so you need a 20 mm barrel coil and a controller to drive it (personally I don’t see any reason to go with 16 mm). Now this is where NV and I differ. There has arisen a defacto standard for coil/controller interfaces. On the mechanical side, a full size, bayonet type, XLR connector and on the electrical side, the pins outs are Pin 1 = AC power, Pin 2 = AC power, Pin 3 = TC +, Pin 4 = TC -, Pin 5 = Ground. NV stayed with the defacto pin outs but uses a screw on type XLR connector. NV’s position is that it’s a better connector. My position is that this connector is not on some airborne avionics or other critical application, that this is overkill, and that in doing so they are locking their customers into buying all future coils from NV (or building your own) which is unacceptable to me. We have conversed on it, NV will not change its mind, so I do NOT recommend their controller/coil. I do recommend Auber which is a good price, company and their tech support is in USA (although I’m sure all or most of the components are made in China), and adheres to the defacto standard XLR and pin-outs.
6. Water Piece – Personally, I like a stemless can without too much diffusion. But the FP does indeed need a water piece to operate through. NV sells some nice Chinese glass and there is always DHGate unless you are a glass aficionado who likes to buy those $2k heady hand made pieces. LOL
7. Coil stand or tray – you will be taking a hot heater head with a hot coil off of your bowl….to empty, reload, take a break, whatever. Where you going to put it? Down on your dining room table….no. NV makes a number of trays that provide a place to rest the heater, a de-bowler to get the AVB out, AVB dump, etc. They vary in price. Or, you can get a large, heavy, ceramic coffee cup and just dump the heater in there in between draws. These are NV’s. I have the round one which I thought was a decent compromise between function and price.
Screens – your flower pot will come with a screen. SS or Ti, not sure which. But do yourself a favor and by two-ply Ti screens from Errlectric or now NV also offers this item. It will keep herb particles from getting through your screen and keep it out of your water piece and lungs. Well worth the extra money.
Operation and Maintenance
Operating this vape couldn’t be easier. Like all e-nails and some other vapes like log vapes, EVO, etc…..the FP works better if you give it 5-10 minutes to heat soak after turning on. Scoop some herb into the bowl, put the heater head on, cap, and draw. It’s that simple.
I generally run about .15 g as a load, or .1 g (or less if you like to micro dose, it will work just like a pipe or bong in that manner). I run at 640 F but people are using their FP anywhere from mid-500’s to low 700’s, depending on the experience you want. Higher temps can drain a load in a couple of draws. Lower temps, more flavor and perhaps a slightly more leisurely session. But this really isn’t a sipper, IMO. This vape is for hard hitting….at least that’s where it fits into my rotation.
I fine grind and like that as it exposes more surface area to this full convection vape. Others like to put small nugs or hand torn and after a couple of draws break it up. They feel that they get more taste this way. I’m too lazy for that and just grind fine.
Maintenance is super simple….just dump the bowl parts into some ISO, its Ti so no worries. The heater head doesn’t really get dirty so unless you feel like disassembling it to remove the coil (which does NOT go into ISO) there is nothing to do. Myself, once I get a coil on nice and tight, I tend to leave it there.
Just like an enail, IMO they work better if your coil is nice and tight on the Ti. I adjust the coil vertical spread and width to tighten my coils up. This is something I do on e-nails and the FP.
I don’t do double decker hits (dab on top, herb in the bowl) but it’s made to do this if that is your desire. It’s just not something I’m interested in, I would rather dab on a dedicated device like a Liger or D-nail Halo but others like this feature. Just depends on your vaping habits and desired outcome.
I think that’s about it. I’m sure I will think of more or you may raise questions that will prompt me to remember anything I over looked. I can say I’m very happy with my FP and it fits in my vape line up where a Sublimator, Glass Symphony, or Herborizer Ti might go. It’s very hard hitting, clean and easy to use, and will NEVER break (oh, coil my go bad but I think even the clumsy among us would be challenged to break this machined, heavy duty, Ti device.
Basic Configurations
But, there is a lot of different configurations and a lot of history so it has to be more than “yeah, man….I used it and got wrecked” type of review. LOL
Let’s start with a basic general description: The FP is an enail coil/controller based vaporizer system for both dry herb and concentrates. It is all titanium and beautifully machined in the USA by NV who are located in Boyton Beach, FL.
It comes in two basic varieties….the FP with multi-dish that everybody else calls the Wrap Around (WA) and the primarily herb based Shower Head (SH).
NewVape’s FP site, including FAQs, are here: https://www.newvape.com/vape-essentials/flowerpot-twax-vape
Here are two pics cut from NV’s website of the two basic configurations:
The WA:
Wrap Around (WA) Heater Head
The SH:
Shower Head (SH)
The differences are in the heating head design. They both need an enail barrel coil and controller installed on the head, but one is optimized to accept Halo type inserts (quartz or Silicone Carbide…”SiC”) for dabbing but you can dab straight off of the Ti (if you like that taste, which I do not). Both can do flower, both can do concentrate, and both can do both at the same time (double decker hit).
But the WA is optimized for concentrates and the SH is truly a flower machine.
Wrap Around Variations
For the next part of this review, we need to understand the basic parts that make up the WA heater head. Basically looks like this:
WA Heater Head Basic Configuration
The WA comes in two configurations also; 1) for use with the native Ti or it will accept a TAG Silicone Carbide (SiC) insert and a slightly different configuration that will accept the D-nail SiC Halo. Difference is that the D-nail insert has a smaller center post opening so it needs to use the appropriate Wrap-Around Head and Center Post Nut (also called a Coil Nut).
If you want to use the TAG SiC insert (sold by TAG or can be bought from NV directly), then you can the appropriate WA Head (or ‘Post’).
Each of course needs the appropriate coil nut for the diameter of barrel coil you want to use:
NOTE: It would be helpful if NV had a configurator that led you through the steps to select compatible items in order to create a FP system. NV has said that they are working on that, but in the meantime, CALL THEM as they have/continue to make changes to their configurations and what I have here may well be out of date soon (if not already).
The Shower Head
The SH heater head is optimized for flower but, as said, if you want you can dab on the Ti trough at the top. The SH does NOT accept Halo type inserts as its primarily for flower and, as you can see below, the center post air inlet is wider with more holes to optimize airflow in the flower bowl underneath. I own a SH and do not own a WA.
It only comes in 20 mm and I wonder how if NV will continue to offer 16 mm as its just not the most sought after size.
The Body or Bowl Configurations
Any Body (or bowl as this is where your flower/herb go) is compatible with any WA or SH heater head.
The Body also has a bit of a history. First, there was the standard ‘OG’ bodies that, while still on the site, are a bit dated and overtaken by subsequent designs. OG bodies include male and female and 14 and 18 mm joint sizes.
Then came bodies with handles:
You can see the design evolution here and part of that was to address how the f*ck to empty a VERY hot Ti bowl! LOL. So, we got bowls with handles. Note, the handles are “break-way” handles in case it gets stuck in a joint you will break the cheap handle before your expensive glass. He does make a solid handle, with silicon wrapping instead of hemp fiber, which is what I use. Its listed as a separate item on the FP parts page.
But this brought up the next issue. Some peoples male body w-handles never stick. Mine stuck every time. It’s simply the expansion of the Ti in the glass joint. Once it cooled down again, it came off perfectly. But how to empty the bowl if it’s stuck in a piece of glass with water in it. Well, I always use a drop down with any of this sort of kit and found it very easy to use the drop down as an extended handle for the bowl. Forget taking the bowl out of the drop down joint (wasn’t happening), just pick the drop down up out of the joint on your water piece and use it to hold when emptying the bowl.
But I’m not the only one who had this issue of sticking…far from it, it was very common. So, NV attempted to address this with two piece Pan Head and Shovel Head (familiar terms to Harley aficionados). The ONLY difference between the two of them is aesthetics…just superficial exterior design. However, they do have a difference from the OG Handle Bodies shown above….the new two piece’s screen depth is 2.5 mm deeper than the OG Handle Body and is equal to the screen depth of the OG bowl (non-handled). Some customers wanted this as they wanted a bigger load size. I prefer the shallower bowl as it puts the load closer to the heat source so a lower coil temp can be used. With the Pan Head and its 2.5 mm deeper bowl, I upped my coil set point temps about 40 F but you will need to experiment as people are all over the maps with FP temps depending on how they like to vape (it’s a very flexible and versatile design).
So, below are the Pan and Shovel head two piece bodies. Note, their handle has a hole in it to insert a small dowel or screw driver to use as leverage to tighten it. As far as I know, they only come in male fittings as the female didn’t have the sticking problem (for obvious reasons) so there was no need for a fix. How this works is you drop a post (14 or 18 mm) into the joint on your water piece until it’s firmly seated. Then gently drop your bowl over the post until it rests against the top of the glass joint. Insert handle and screw the two pieces together. This really did solve the sticking problem. Early versions sometimes had a small air leak that slightly diluted the vapor, but considering this is the ‘bong’ of vaporizers even a small amount of dilution was considered unacceptable. Small tweaks to the design (e.g. getting rid of the key way on the posts) eliminated that issue.
What Else Do I Need?
Well, you don’t need a carb cap but I use one every time and to me it makes the same difference, and for the same reasons, as we use a cap on a dab rig. I use the cap for flower only bowls as I can reduce temperature on the coil and get thicker vapor. If you have sensitive lungs, perhaps do without the cap but you will probably get somewhat thinner vapor (but we are talking about a relative difference when already starting with a smoke stack of a vape! Haha).
Carb Caps - He makes three different carb caps:
1. Lollicap for WA . Note, the handle can screw on in either a vertical or horizontal orientation (th
2. For the Showerhead, NV offers two caps, one very much like the Lollicap and another design made out of Ti which seems to be preferred by owners (and I certainly like it the best)
3. Threaded Loading Tool – rather than the little dab handle that comes with the carb caps, I recommend either the threaded loading tool that will replace that on the cap, or at least get their Pax Loading Tool as this is the best scoop in the business, IMO, and fits into a lot of vape ovens. Highly recommend these items.
4. Coil Cover – do you need a coil cover….no. Should you get one, hell yeah. Keeps the heat in and reduces the delta temps between set point and actual heater head temp.
5. Enail PID Controller and Coil – you need to drive this thing so you need a 20 mm barrel coil and a controller to drive it (personally I don’t see any reason to go with 16 mm). Now this is where NV and I differ. There has arisen a defacto standard for coil/controller interfaces. On the mechanical side, a full size, bayonet type, XLR connector and on the electrical side, the pins outs are Pin 1 = AC power, Pin 2 = AC power, Pin 3 = TC +, Pin 4 = TC -, Pin 5 = Ground. NV stayed with the defacto pin outs but uses a screw on type XLR connector. NV’s position is that it’s a better connector. My position is that this connector is not on some airborne avionics or other critical application, that this is overkill, and that in doing so they are locking their customers into buying all future coils from NV (or building your own) which is unacceptable to me. We have conversed on it, NV will not change its mind, so I do NOT recommend their controller/coil. I do recommend Auber which is a good price, company and their tech support is in USA (although I’m sure all or most of the components are made in China), and adheres to the defacto standard XLR and pin-outs.
6. Water Piece – Personally, I like a stemless can without too much diffusion. But the FP does indeed need a water piece to operate through. NV sells some nice Chinese glass and there is always DHGate unless you are a glass aficionado who likes to buy those $2k heady hand made pieces. LOL
7. Coil stand or tray – you will be taking a hot heater head with a hot coil off of your bowl….to empty, reload, take a break, whatever. Where you going to put it? Down on your dining room table….no. NV makes a number of trays that provide a place to rest the heater, a de-bowler to get the AVB out, AVB dump, etc. They vary in price. Or, you can get a large, heavy, ceramic coffee cup and just dump the heater in there in between draws. These are NV’s. I have the round one which I thought was a decent compromise between function and price.
Screens – your flower pot will come with a screen. SS or Ti, not sure which. But do yourself a favor and by two-ply Ti screens from Errlectric or now NV also offers this item. It will keep herb particles from getting through your screen and keep it out of your water piece and lungs. Well worth the extra money.
Operation and Maintenance
Operating this vape couldn’t be easier. Like all e-nails and some other vapes like log vapes, EVO, etc…..the FP works better if you give it 5-10 minutes to heat soak after turning on. Scoop some herb into the bowl, put the heater head on, cap, and draw. It’s that simple.
I generally run about .15 g as a load, or .1 g (or less if you like to micro dose, it will work just like a pipe or bong in that manner). I run at 640 F but people are using their FP anywhere from mid-500’s to low 700’s, depending on the experience you want. Higher temps can drain a load in a couple of draws. Lower temps, more flavor and perhaps a slightly more leisurely session. But this really isn’t a sipper, IMO. This vape is for hard hitting….at least that’s where it fits into my rotation.
I fine grind and like that as it exposes more surface area to this full convection vape. Others like to put small nugs or hand torn and after a couple of draws break it up. They feel that they get more taste this way. I’m too lazy for that and just grind fine.
Maintenance is super simple….just dump the bowl parts into some ISO, its Ti so no worries. The heater head doesn’t really get dirty so unless you feel like disassembling it to remove the coil (which does NOT go into ISO) there is nothing to do. Myself, once I get a coil on nice and tight, I tend to leave it there.
Just like an enail, IMO they work better if your coil is nice and tight on the Ti. I adjust the coil vertical spread and width to tighten my coils up. This is something I do on e-nails and the FP.
I don’t do double decker hits (dab on top, herb in the bowl) but it’s made to do this if that is your desire. It’s just not something I’m interested in, I would rather dab on a dedicated device like a Liger or D-nail Halo but others like this feature. Just depends on your vaping habits and desired outcome.
I think that’s about it. I’m sure I will think of more or you may raise questions that will prompt me to remember anything I over looked. I can say I’m very happy with my FP and it fits in my vape line up where a Sublimator, Glass Symphony, or Herborizer Ti might go. It’s very hard hitting, clean and easy to use, and will NEVER break (oh, coil my go bad but I think even the clumsy among us would be challenged to break this machined, heavy duty, Ti device.
