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Vape Enail Kits and Bits

I remember somewhere @Baron23 had posted or had knowledge on auber wiring?

I was wondering if you could help me with this wiring setup

Is it the same/would it work with my auber or is it a different style coil wiring?

Cheers in advance for any input/knowledge

From anyone else too

Screenshot_2022-01-15-15-04-17-35_4641ebc0df1485bf6b47ebd018b5ee76.jpg

EDIT
On further research I think this is opposite wiring to an auber if I'm correct
 
Last edited:
felvapes said:
I remember somewhere @Baron23 had posted or had knowledge on auber wiring?

I was wondering if you could help me with this wiring setup

Is it the same/would it work with my auber or is it a different style coil wiring?

Cheers in advance for any input/knowledge

From anyone else too

View attachment 33131
EDIT
On further research I think this is opposite wiring to an auber if I'm correct
Click to expand...


Auber and Dnail pin out are 1&2= ac+\-, 2&3= tc+\-, 5 = ground.

Hope this is helpful.
 
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Do not buy from the above seller...pin out is incorrect...not the US 'standard' like Auber sells.
 
The above seller seems OK as they gave me a full credit no questions asked for the incorrect coil, still lucky to not burn out my controller.
Too bad I have no idea how this one is wired as I am sure I could re-solder it if I knew for sure.
 
LesPlenty said:
The above seller seems OK as they gave me a full credit no questions asked for the incorrect coil, still lucky to not burn out my controller.
Too bad I have no idea how this one is wired as I am sure I could re-solder it if I knew for sure.
Click to expand...
Yea this seller has sent me another message saying they will refund if it doesn't work etc so they seem like they are okay in that regard as they are leaving the paper trail prior to any purchase
I never bought one though and it would suck to get one that did blow your PID

I did a while back get a coil from AliExpress and re- soldered it according to how they had labelled on their site
It blew the fuse on my rdk 300 though so it was incorrect how they had said

I got another coil from auber to be sure this time
I also now have two auber pids - a 300a and a 200
 
felvapes said:
I got another coil from auber to be sure this time
I also now have two auber pids - a 300a
Click to expand...
I want to get the RDK300 as well but they never seem to have the 220v flat coil when I check.
 
LesPlenty said:
I want to get the RDK300 as well but they never seem to have the 220v flat coil when I check.
Click to expand...
The 200 is good and does the job
But the knob is a bit smoother on the 300 when turning and the auto off feature is nice for walk away, forgetting or going to sleep
I think it heats up a little faster too

Both are fine units though - if on a budget the 200 is perfectly fine
If you have money the 300 is nicer and has auto off

I think when I recently got a barrel from them it said it was 110
I emailed them and asked for a 220/240 and they said no worries and sent one for me

Apparently you are meant to make a note in your cart/checkout

Maybe email them before making a purchase and ask? They might have them there
 
Ordered, hopefully, this one will work. :thumbsup:
LesPlenty said:
I want to get the RDK300 as well but they never seem to have the 220v flat coil when I check.
Click to expand...
I see Auberins have a note at the bottom of the PID listings that 110v coils are standard and to just leave a note in the checkout if you need 220v, I will probably order a kit next sale as well.
 
So I plugged in my old Dnail coil after the China version did not work and the PID controller displays the ambient temp but does not rise to the set temp so it looks like the wrongly wired coil did blow up something in my Auber...oh well I will have plenty of spares by the time I am finished...the DAAB, Dablamp, and Puffco Peak Pro will keep me going in the meantime.:disgust:
 
LesPlenty said:
So I plugged in my old Dnail coil after the China version did not work and the PID controller displays the ambient temp but does not rise to the set temp so it looks like the wrongly wired coil did blow up something in my Auber...oh well I will have plenty of spares by the time I am finished...the DAAB, Dablamp, and Puffco Peak Pro will keep me going in the meantime.:disgust:
Click to expand...
They have a fuse that you can change - at least the 300does

I emailed them about mine when that same thing happened
They will fix for $20 but I told them by the time I paid their post etc I could get a new one and that this was why I had bought a 200 in the meantime

So they had been emailing me back and forth with instructions on how to fix
First I changed a fuse - that got the temp rising - them I had to email again as it just went up too high and I couldn't set temp - they replied with the info and what relay to swap

They are very helpful give them an email mate

When I changed my fuse I put an external one in for future reference to prevent the need to solder

My 200 hasn't broken so I'm not sure it's the same but I believe it would be similar
IMG20220301144752.jpg
IMG20220301144823.jpg
IMG20220301151511.jpg
IMG20220301151525.jpg
 
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There is a fuse on the circuit board (glass type) but that tested fine with the multimeter, none of the capacitors look bulged but there was a bit of plastic that looks like it came off the following part my arrow is on in your picture,
InkedIMG20220301144823_LI.jpg

My 'blown' part with the glass fuse,
1647160891637.jpg

So thanks to the picture above I can see the actual arc/burn marks on the doohickey thing-a-ma-bob.
I might desolder it and head to my nearest Jaycar for a newbie...whatever it is called.
Got my old Menovo PID back from a friend to keep me going...he told me to keep it but I will give it back eventually along with something to consume with it!
 
LesPlenty said:
There is a fuse on the circuit board (glass type) but that tested fine with the multimeter, none of the capacitors look bulged but there was a bit of plastic that looks like it came off the following part my arrow is on in your picture,
View attachment 34517
My 'blown' part with the glass fuse,
View attachment 34518
So thanks to the picture above I can see the actual arc/burn marks on the doohickey thing-a-ma-bob.
I might desolder it and head to my nearest Jaycar for a newbie...whatever it is called.
Got my old Menovo PID back from a friend to keep me going...he told me to keep it but I will give it back eventually along with something to consume with it!
Click to expand...
That was the second part I had to swap after the fuse
Exactly the same bit under the heat sink
They said to be careful when soldering that one back in

I can look for the email if you want they gave me the name of the chip/relay we need to buy or if you contact them they will tell you the name of the part

Mine didn't look all melted like that though

EDIT
Here is a screenshot of the email
Assuming the chips/relays etc are the same as the 300 this is the numbers you need to search for

The triac BT136 is the part you have pointed to with the arrow and has melted on your pic. I don't have a picture of the optocoupler yet but will let you know when/if they send one
The TRIAC may be all that you need to fix

Screenshot_2022-03-13-20-09-50-81_4641ebc0df1485bf6b47ebd018b5ee76.jpg


EDIT AGAIN
www.ebay.com.au

1/2/5p BT136 600V 4A Triac Thyristor Touch Dimmer Light / Sens Gate NXP TO-220 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 1/2/5p BT136 600V 4A Triac Thyristor Touch Dimmer Light / Sens Gate NXP TO-220 at the best online prices at eBay!
www.ebay.com.au

Here is a triac from Port Macquarie on ebay


www.ebay.com.au

MOC3081 DIP-6 Zero-Cross Triac Driver Optocoupler AU STOCK FAST POSTAGE | eBay

<p>MOC3081</p><p>DIP-6 Zero-Cross Triac Driver Optocoupler</p>
www.ebay.com.au

And here is an optocoupler from Sydney
 
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BT136 Ordered, cause it ain't like I can break it more!
Thanks @felvapes for saving me work as it may have just ended up in the junk bin of spares I have. :thumbsup:
 
The BT136 replacement has fixed my problem (once I put enough 'bird shit solder' on it)...the unit is operating normally again. :cheers:
 
LesPlenty said:
The BT136 replacement has fixed my problem (once I put enough 'bird shit solder' on it)...the unit is operating normally again. :cheers:
Click to expand...
Excellent to know
I have my bt 136 here too

I went to desolder the old one other night but for some reason I couldn't get the solder off and onto the flux to remove the broken one
(I was rather stoned but it was frustrating me at the time)

Glad it fixed it and my 300 should get back up once I work out how to melt the old solder properly
 
I found it easy to remove the 3x legs after I cut the top part off, then just heat 1x leg at a time from the back while pulling on the front with pointy nose pliers etc :thumbsup:
 
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