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Vape The VB2 Concentrate Converter

Vitolo

Vaporist
@Vaporbrothers said:
Like a box... but newfangled. You put any oil, solid, or anything into it and it evaporates immediately, completely, and with no taste of metal or heart attack. It consumes about 5x more power than a typical portable vaporizer, so expect a hit like a semi (as opposed to a moped with pedals).
I would like to take this opportunity to introduce a dear friend of mine... "VB2"

tumblr_nr06kf7uEM1rzuyr2o1_400.png

What this is:
This is a "Wax Converter". It is a device that due to the heat of its element and it's structure, can CONVERT a concentrate to vapor instantaneously.
Vapor Brothers and VaporWarehouse will be along after a time to reveal the details of this amazing device, and to divulge the conditions of owning one, and of course the cost.
I do feel confident in saying that early adopters will have the guys in charge watching their backs in a way unseen in most businesses!
What you do not see me using here or in the video coming up, is a small cup-like disc or challice (proper name to be revealed at a later time), that was in development while I took the above picture.
It's function is to protect the ceramic plate/element from direct abuse from dab tools and other dangers.
The insert went through a great many changes before they settled upon this design, and material, and I was proud to be along for the ride in helping to figure the best.



THE BEST​
What you see is a moldable ceramic... which is a proprietary material. It is so dense that it weighs a good amount for it's size, and can withstand abuse. Denser that porcelain by far, this is the best material for the purpose.
A machinable ceramic was used for a while (Malcor), but with it's prohibitive cost, and time consuming manufacturing it was just not dense enough.

The unit reaches temperatures hot enough to keep the insert clean.(cleaner than the walls of my VB2 after some abuse!)

VB2
The device has developed a few loving nicknames. I explain this because I am about to show a video in which I refer to the device as "The Cheesebox".
As you look at the video, please bear in mind, that it was made some time ago, and there have been changes and improvements in some subtle features, and I have long since found my "claimed preferred Method" from the video to be WAY TOO INTENSE and have reverted to using a 2 or 3 foot whip like a gentleman. The method I call my preferred way in the video left my mouth too tacky, and frankly, I was way too fucked up! :o"did Uncle Vito just say that?"

I found two manners of dabbing on such a nice surface.
The drag method was my favorite, as it consumes the concentrates faster.. because you are continually touching new uncooled unused surface.
smaller dabs I drop..larger I drag
You can see that in the above video I did not use the challice (disc/insert)because it was not yet created
Now I only use the Cheesebox ( it's gonna be tuff to stop calling it that :doh:) with the insert in place.

I am a patient with severe complications. I speak highly of products that amaze me. I try my best to say nothing if I have only bad to say.
I helped with some development of this tool for a good while, and was NEVER asked by anyone to give it positive feedback.
I asked for permission, once my job was done to reveal to the concentrate fanatics and Dabbers out there....
that .. "Your time has arrived"
Thank you for your time.
 
Last edited:

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
VaporBrothers said:

I would like to take this opportunity to introduce a dear friend of mine... "VB2"

What this is:
This is a "Wax Converter". It is a device that due to the heat of its element and it's structure, can CONVERT a concentrate to vapor instantaneously.
Vapor Brothers and VaporWarehouse will be along after a time to reveal the details of this amazing device, and to divulge the conditions of owning one, and of course the cost.
I do feel confident in saying that early adopters will have the guys in charge watching their backs in a way unseen in most businesses!
What you do not see me using here or in the video coming up, is a small cup-like disc or challice (proper name to be revealed at a later time), that was in development while I took the above picture.
It's function is to protect the ceramic plate/element from direct abuse from dab tools and other dangers.
The insert went through a great many changes before they settled upon this design, and material, and I was proud to be along for the ride in helping to figure the best.

THE BEST​
What you see is a moldable ceramic... which is a proprietary material. It is so dense that it weighs a good amount for it's size, and can withstand abuse. Denser that porcelain by far, this is the best material for the purpose.
A machinable ceramic was used for a while (Malcor), but with it's prohibitive cost, and time consuming manufacturing it was just not dense enough.

Macor
The unit reaches temperatures hot enough to keep the insert clean.
(cleaner than the walls of my VB2 after some abuse!)

VB2
The device has developed a few loving nicknames. I explain this because I am about to show a video in which I refer to the device as "The Cheesebox".
As you look at the video, please bear in mind, that it was made some time ago, and there have been changes and improvements in some subtle features, and I have long since found my "claimed preferred Method" from the video to be WAY TOO INTENSE and have reverted to using a 2 or 3 foot whip like a gentleman. The method I call my preferred way in the video left my mouth too tacky, and frankly, I was way too fucked up! :o"did Uncle Vito just say that?"

I found two manners of dabbing on such a nice surface.
The drag method was my favorite, as it consumes the concentrates faster.. because you are continually touching new uncooled unused surface.
smaller dabs I drop..larger I drag
You can see that in the above video I did not use the challice (disc/insert)because it was not yet created
Now I only use the Cheesebox ( it's gonna be tuff to stop calling it that :doh:) with the insert in place.

I am a patient with severe complications. I speak highly of products that amaze me. I try my best to say nothing if I have only bad to say.
I helped with some development of this tool for a good while, and was NEVER asked by anyone to give it positive feedback.
I asked for permission, once my job was done to reveal to the concentrate fanatics and Dabbers out there....
that .. "Your time has arrived"
Thank you for your time.
This new insert is fascinating, thanks for sharing!

I remember they had a Silicone Nitride nail they were using for a while in the vb2.5's, is this new design intended to replace the 2.5 models, or are they intended to be side-by-side products allowing consumers to choose one or the other?
 

Vitolo

Vaporist
is this new design intended to replace the 2.5 models, or are they intended to be side-by-side products allowing consumers to choose one or the other?
This is the first VB2
The VB2.5 was after this.
They will sell both, side by side as far as I understand.
I still have the Beta VB2 from early 2012. It got released in Oct 2013.
 

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
This is the first VB2
The VB2.5 was after this.
They will sell both, side by side as far as I understand.
I still have the Beta VB2 from early 2012. It got released in Oct 2013.
Great news, thanks for clarfiying, my friend.

I always wondered how the SiN version fared with vaporists, we never heard much about people's experiences with that one!
 

Vitolo

Vaporist
About the inserts:

I use them till the end.
I ride them hard, and they seem to last.
Mine start to get darker over time and get a dull look to them.
I like them at that point for a subtle porosity.
There are other materials that get porous MUCH more slowly. I like them too... for there ability to "keep that bead of oil dancing above surface(Leidenfrost)"
My inserts are done when they crack!
I inspect against a light to see the cracks coming.


Protecting the Inserts

Hint:
When working with discs.. a 40 watt bulb is your best friend. Not too bright or too dim.
Incadescent bulbs work best.

(They are doing away with standard bulbs and using halogen and other new LED technology.. fuck the man!... so stock up!)
When using a set of discs of varying materials and evaluating which insert is best for which concentrate type, there are factors that you will want to consider.
Be fair, and allow inserts their chance to show their true colors unhampered by human error.

I do not like to leave my Nipple Top glass on for a couple of reasons. I remove the glass top when I step away from unit.
When unit is off , heat still rises, and the final heat will remain in the top.
  1. The tubing stays hot so it is prone to weaken its grip.. from not allowing it to cool.
  2. The residues that you may try to reclaim "toughen up" and become harder to work with, clean or dissolve after that final heating of a shut down unit.
There is a thought, however...
As the unit is now no longer heating and it begins to cool, I prefer NOT to expose my insert to the danger of rapid cooling, since this is the piece that takes the brunt of the daily beating.
One way to avoid damage to insert is to leave the cover on until unit is cool.
So what I do, is after a few hits..

I remove the top and set it aside to cool.

I set it down safe, but I do not like leaving my insert exposed during cooling
(note the top is behind unit)

I protect the open top with the less fragile, easier to slide on ceramic cover
(I can use the silicone nozzle, to suck up any last wisp that may occur)


Protecting the test materials
OK.. so now I have done my best job at protecting the insert from damage during testing so that I may see the materials true nature.
I have been through a number materials, but two are now in the hands of users, and those would be
what these images reflect.
I am not certain if the materials technical names matter or at this time are "non-disclosable".
I will disclose when I get word this is OK to print.
Later there may be other materials, and names to refer to each by.
For the purpose of the discussion about the 1st available 2 inserts,I will refer to them here as;
Original- Larger/duller in appearance/more traditional ceramic look. Dense yet lightweight.
New- Smaller/Shinier in appearance/ glazed porcelain look. Very Dense, Heavy feel.

Monitoring the materials
After complete cooling has been accomplished is when I lift out my insert to look it over.
I take note of the following details:
  • black flecks that come off with a simple touch of a needle
  • black flecks that come off, but when scraped with needle
  • black flecks that don't respond to scratches (these will vanish with next heating)
  • stains that appear to be duller than the rest of the insert
  • stains that appear to be 'within"/penetrating insert...
  • appearance of cracks
The cracking of these materials occurs in different ways.
It is tricky to monitor because the pieces don't just always fall apart.
This is because the external raised wall around the insert is a ring, providing structural integrity.
A crack occurs, but you do not see it, because the disc is hot and is also not in your hand. (DONT try to lift and observe a cooling disc. This is a sure way to break one. They ain't cheap!)
By the time the insert has cooled down, the outer ring has contracted sufficient lt so that the cracks are invisible... pushed together through external force of the outer ring, now contracted.
Look at the discs back, against the light... using the discs backside as a mirror , trying to catch the light's reflection... and then look. for signs of cracking.

Enter the light bulb.
You will begin to see where you are having troubles.. and act accordingly.

Macor© that was tested once.. had to be machined by hand to have the outer ring.
it was outrageously expensive... and in the end not dense enough... it erupted as earth would over time into an uneven microscopic texture.

ORIGINAL INSERT

Original... well worn upon an unfocused glance.


cracking with some blistering


The back shows an obvious crack. I had been monitoring this particular crack.
It is older now and is beginning to have it's own indent or groove after it heals each time.
Now the darkened stain in the line also pulls your attention, as debris has finally entered, that has not bleached out through the purging of heat. The disc stays functional. (important)

The light test;

dim bulb with flash shows cracking and reflects glass dabber etchings on the surface.



brighter view... you can not see the dabber etchings without flash.


Blinding view... no flash used. MANY webbed cracks, but structural integrity
remains


This particular ORIGINAL insert had an ever so barely perceivable absorbent quality.
The dabs will dance on the hot surface, but when held in place, they melt in and vanish.
NOT considering sloppiness or overspill, a neatly placed and held dab will have a second of after-burn

The NEW insert did not have the same after-burn!
It's makeup is denser and very glossy.
Dabs do not appear to absorb into material in the least.
(not that the absorbency I mention is bad at all!)
After a great deal of use the new disc shows some dullness toward center.
Images next will show this disc.
It gives a preferred dab experience in my opinion.. but it is more sensitive due to it's increased density to cracking during cooling, and to forming microscopic fractures as the insert tries to cool and
readjust it's cracked sides together.
In other words, the preferred NEW disc can break more easily, but not unreasonably early in the inserts use.. and in my opinion it is worth replacing when needed.
I like it best, but would have no trouble going back to that ORIGINAL...or even the Experimental macor for that matter!

NEW INSERT:

At first glance, it looks in great shape, because of the lack of darkening



loser look tells it all. There is flaking in the center, bit not much...
but when this baby healed, the cracks went all the way up the lip. One can see that the lip.. the
ring I spoke of tries to hold up, but the fracture takes another direction.



The back reveals cracking, but not through and though. The density of this material forms a sheen, and rings as well that appear to have made the bottom "flat" of this insert it's structural force.




The shine against the light shows integrity along bottom plane



The light test reveals brutal cracks



The crack on the lip at about 10 on the dial will be this inserts failing within the next half dozen sessions. No tears shed... it served well!
I use them till the end.
I ride them hard, and they seem to last.
Mine start to get darker over time and get a dull look to them.
I like them at that point for a subtle porosity.
There are other materials that get porous MUCH more slowly. I like them too... for there ability to "keep that bead of oil dancing above surface(Leidenfrost)"
My inserts are done when they crack!
I inspect against a light to see the cracks coming.
 

Vaporbrothers

Vaporizer Builder
Manufacturer
HI Y'all I'm happy to join this new forum and dump stuff here about this new device. I say "new" because it's our 2nd big idea, first being the box/Whip style vaporizer we pioneered in 1999. The wax converter, aka honey pot, cheesebox, VB2 came into being when an injured friend needed more herb intake than smoking, eating, and flower vaporizing could give. We created a way that she could drop chunks of solid material onto a superheated ceramic surface, driving off the oils and moisture instantly. While VB2 can be turned down for "low temp dabbing," it excels at its high setting by levitating the oils on their own vapors, keeping oil from actually contacting the heater surface. If you've ever seen water dance on a hot skillet (by the Leidenfrost effect) you see what we are doing with oils in VB2.

VB2 is produced only by special order right now, as the world seems to want high tech handhelds and does not invest in plug in units anymore. There's no hit that's as strong and fresh tasting as our ceramic heater though... Sometimes you need real power to convert oil into vapor quickly. VB2 (model VB2.0) uses 100W to do it's trick. VB2.5 uses 700W to get to full temp in 30 sec... Definitely a feat not to be accomplished by a battery device.

I'd love to answer questions and take your suggestions any time. For now, enjoy some videos on VB2:

VB2's unveiling at Degenerate Flame Off, Eugene, OR

VB2.5 gets Vapor Review Blog too high

Everybody with a VB2 should use this inline bubbler. Get it at discount from me (remind me I promised this to you at Vaporasylum)

VB2.5

Clips from VB2 video by Head Life Media


Linus Vapor, Co-founder, Vaporbrothers, Inc.
 
Last edited:

Vitolo

Vaporist
VB2 is produced only by special order right now
But as you see it is being produced, so all potential users out there can still get one.
The VB2.5 is being made and there will be some stock on hand , I understand.
If you use concentrates, this device is the real deal!
 

t-dub

Vapor Sloth
I remember they had a Silicone Nitride nail they were using for a while in the vb2.5's, is this new design intended to replace the 2.5 models, or are they intended to be side-by-side products allowing consumers to choose one or the other?
The VB 2.5 with its Silicon Nitride heater, no insert necessary, is a more expensive option that is done by custom order only.

I must say that if you have anything important to do don't use this device until you're done, otherwise it just won't happen.

I love my VB 2.5 as it medicates to therapeutic levels quickly and tasty. My brother has MS and when he tried the 2.5 he said he got relief all the way down to the bottoms of his feet which had never happened before.

Much love to everyone over at @Vaporbrothers

My purple killer . . . :ko: The VB 2.5 Multi Converter . . . :enamored:

This beast is for serious medicators, willing to work with a device that is still being developed. Digital PID circuit enables 700+ Watts to get you to 800F in 30 seconds. Ceramic heater made from Silicon Nitride creates a fine mist that is more deeply absorbed. Are you ready for VB2.5?

 

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