I agree with this.... even for general houseplants.
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Grow First Grow
- Thread starter Biskit
- Start date
Kellya86
Herb Gardener.....
Apparently, i dont know if this is crap, but an old lady that has many many house plants, told me her secret is feeding them sparkling water... i mean co2 in there..??
I have never used sparkling water but I do use very dilute H2O2, hydrogen peroxide to give my plants a boost of oxygen now and again. I also use it for germinating seeds.
sballo
Well-Known Member
I see. It is fascinating to see how many things there are that we need to pay attention to. And yet I thought that simple tap water would de.
Thank you very much @Kellya86 for drawing my attention to this point and thank you to all of you for sharing your thoughts about this point.
Going to buck a bucket (Believe it or not, I still don't have any here in Japan
)
I wanted to upload an update of the current state of my three ladies. That yellowish on their leaves is still a matter of concern to me.
The TDS meter is going to arrive today. I am looking forward to measuring the PPM level.
I was thinking that the problem might even the hanging height of the lamp.
You know, as a first grower you are inexperienced and naive and might easily tend to think
"the stronger the light, the better it is...Ultimately the sun is much much stronger than a Mars Hidro 1000"
My lamp is always set at 100% and the height might have been wrong. There seem to be different opinion on the hanging height. The manufacturer recommend:
seedling 24"-30"
- veg 18"-24"
- flowering 12"-18"
I think that my lamp was too low, wasn't it? (around 37 cm) Was it?
I have set it now at around 50 cm.
I don't know if someone of you has the same light but what would you recommend speaking of height and dimming? I keep mine at always 100% Wouldn't you?
By the way, do you guys have a lumen meter? Would you say that such a device belongs to the equipment that every grower should have?
Though I guess that if you want a good and reliable device it is going to be expensive.
Thank you very much @Kellya86 for drawing my attention to this point and thank you to all of you for sharing your thoughts about this point.
Going to buck a bucket (Believe it or not, I still don't have any here in Japan
)I wanted to upload an update of the current state of my three ladies. That yellowish on their leaves is still a matter of concern to me.
The TDS meter is going to arrive today. I am looking forward to measuring the PPM level.
I was thinking that the problem might even the hanging height of the lamp.
You know, as a first grower you are inexperienced and naive and might easily tend to think
"the stronger the light, the better it is...Ultimately the sun is much much stronger than a Mars Hidro 1000"
My lamp is always set at 100% and the height might have been wrong. There seem to be different opinion on the hanging height. The manufacturer recommend:
seedling 24"-30"
- veg 18"-24"
- flowering 12"-18"
I think that my lamp was too low, wasn't it? (around 37 cm) Was it?
I have set it now at around 50 cm.
I don't know if someone of you has the same light but what would you recommend speaking of height and dimming? I keep mine at always 100% Wouldn't you?
By the way, do you guys have a lumen meter? Would you say that such a device belongs to the equipment that every grower should have?
Though I guess that if you want a good and reliable device it is going to be expensive.
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I do but never use it anymore, it was only used by me to tell when my old HPS globes were losing their optimum power. You could just download an app to do the same job as most recent decent phones have pretty good sensors for measuring light.
sballo
Well-Known Member
Oh, I didn't think about the fact that a smartphone has a sensor. Great idea!
I have a xiaomi 11T pro. It should have a pretty good sensor.
Kellya86
Herb Gardener.....
Sorry @sballo what light are you using.. if its a weak arse led or flourecent tube, you can literally have the light almost on it... as long as it dont push your temp up at canopy level...
They look ok with regards to that though.. they not reaching.. node spacing looks tight enough..
Wind burn is also a thing... a serious thing.. dont have fan directly on plant.. its just to circulate the air in the room...
Also do you have too much negative pressure ?? You have an extract fan and passive intake ??
Id give them a good dose of nitrogen to see if that cures the yellowing.. just trial and error till you fix it.. concentrate on how new growth looks.. yellow leaves will stay yellow now, the plant will sacrifice them..
I hope you get this sorted, or this gonna hurt your yield, and probably gonna hermie if conditions dont become optimal for flowering...
What humidity you running.. should be up about 70 right now..
Get an ultra sonic humidifier if you dont have one.. great cheap way to control humidity and push temps down when pushing an mh bulb in veg...
They look ok with regards to that though.. they not reaching.. node spacing looks tight enough..
Wind burn is also a thing... a serious thing.. dont have fan directly on plant.. its just to circulate the air in the room...
Also do you have too much negative pressure ?? You have an extract fan and passive intake ??
Id give them a good dose of nitrogen to see if that cures the yellowing.. just trial and error till you fix it.. concentrate on how new growth looks.. yellow leaves will stay yellow now, the plant will sacrifice them..
I hope you get this sorted, or this gonna hurt your yield, and probably gonna hermie if conditions dont become optimal for flowering...
What humidity you running.. should be up about 70 right now..
Get an ultra sonic humidifier if you dont have one.. great cheap way to control humidity and push temps down when pushing an mh bulb in veg...
sballo
Well-Known Member
I have a Mars Hydro TS 1000.
As for the fan, I thought that it is good to have it almost direct on the plants....you know, to imitate the wind which . quoting @LesPlenty :
" having the plants sway in the wind will make the branches nice and strong so they can support the weight of the buds"
I might have misunderstood it. , I put the fan near the plants to make them sway.
I should probably direct it towards the ceiling for air circulation but then there would be no swaying any more ..I do not know..
I have no growingtent, by the way.I am not sure if I understood you properly what you mean with "too much negative pressure " and "a passive intake"
Do you mean whether I have a sort of opening of my "growroom" to let fresh air come into? Well, I don't have a tent.
This is my improvisation of "growroom". It is certainly not tight like a tent and there should be enough air flowing in:
Grow - First Grow
This is my improvisation :biggrin: just two Ikea chairs on which I fixed a rod with some wire and I fixed on it the lamp. Then I used some reflecting film for plants : (which is transparent, strangely. In fact, I could even take a photo from the outside of the improvised tend) and a...
vaporasylum.com
Speaking of Nitrogen, the products that I have are the Flora series "Micro-Blow-Bloom" plus Calimagic.
How can I give the plants only more nitrogen? Is there another product that contains only nitrogen wich you'd recommend? But then, I would run the risk to overfeed the plants as there is surely nitrogen in the Micro of the Flora series
By the way, I am feeding them twice a week using the half of the amount recommended for photoperiodic.
The humidity level is around 55. I thought that under 70 would be the best humidity for Cannabis. But you meant that 70 would be more ideal?
Going to switch on the humidifier..
I have a small humidifier but I used it only last week. It is getting more humid these days here in Tokyo. I think that I might need a dehumidifier soon instead.
As for the temperature, it's 33 - sometimes 34 C...A bit too high, isnt't it?
Hmm..."wind burn" A new sort of concern...
It is getting more complicated
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Kellya86
Herb Gardener.....
He is correct, you want enough air circ to caus a little sway, but wind directly blowing on them can be bad.. dries leaves out and causes wind burn... point your fan down the wall so it just mixes up the air and causes movement..
Ok so you dont have a tent so ignore this.. usually in a tent grow you set your fans up to allow a little neg pressurr in tent.. keeps air mobing towards extract fan and keeps smell down..
Err the light.. good starter light.. led dont waste much to heat so i would worry about it... can i see a pic of your plants from the side....
Also make sure your dark period is fully dark with no light leaks...
The first one is a stressfull headache mate..
By the 4th or 5th, you will have it so sussed, that it jus kinda happens in background.. feed once a week, train once a week in veg.. jus gotta get your system sorted...
sballo
Well-Known Member
The thing with the leaves drying out makes sense to me. In fact, they fell a bit dry. I have just pointed the fan up first rather than down as you recommended. I just want to try both directions. The reason why I started with the upper position is because I want to see if the temperature drops having the fan pointed towards the lamp. The temparature is around 33..Isn't it too high? Anyway, point it down or up there is no direct wind towards the leaves. Thanks for drawing my attention to it. This might have been the problem of the yellowish (maybe...)
But what would happen to those plants being outside in the free nature with wind blowing on them on a summer hot day? Anyway, everything that I have been learning thanks to all of you makes sense to me.
I am wondering if I should buy a product that contains only nitrogen but would I then run the risk to overfeed the plants as there is surely nitrogen in the Micro of the Flora series already?
"Id give them a good dose of nitrogen to see if that cures the yellowing.. just trial and error till you fix it"
What product would you recommend ?
Here are pics oft the plants from the side...plus one with the fan pointed upwards.
"Also make sure your dark period is fully dark with no light leaks..."
When the light is off I cannot see through the reflective films that I uses to build my "tent". Does it mean that it is fully dark inside?? hm..I don't know
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Kellya86
Herb Gardener.....
Its never relentless and constant outside.. they get a break...
Holy moly is thats way to high.. get it down to 25... asap.. dim light if you can..
So yeah.. 33 degrees and a fan constantly on it is likely your issue here..
Get temps in range and less wind and you should be good...
Try to enjoy this learning process...
Its a journey... even if you ruin your crop first time, we can just exctract it somehow..
You will end up with some sort of usable cannabis product by the end of this dont worry...
sballo
Well-Known Member
I have just dimmed the light to 75%. But again I can't help asking myself how do those plants which grow only outside in the nature can keep up with the heat of the sun in the summer.
Actually I am surprised that it gets that hot in there. I even detached the driver of the lights and LED lights shouldn't produce that much heat..
Well, Japan is not Alaska,..maybe that's why.
Yes, I am actually enjoying this learning process
Thank you!
Kellya86
Herb Gardener.....
Thats looking wind burney..
Yeah how the hell are you hitting 33 with an led light...??
Whats the outside room temp right now for you. ??
If japan is hot and your intake air is already hot, you need to think about ways to cool it.. again a cool mist humidifier put near your intake will massively help this... ac is not cheap and with your setup i wouldnt bother...
Keep the room its in cool, so keep curtains closed...
Another thing to check.. you are running your ladies day photoperiod, during your night time right.. so when you awake they sleep.. and vice versa..
sballo
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your explanation, though the leave you have marked is green and not yellow. You might be referring to the fact that it looks a bit curled down, right? That plan was the first that I started to train and that leave was lying down pressed against the soil until I freed it yesterday.
I am also wondering why the temperature is that high. Well the room temperature now is 26 with an humidity level of 60.
I think it is slowly time to switch on the air conditioning...
By the way, my ladies are autoflowering not photoperiod. But I always try to give them around 6 hours darkness.
Kellya86
Herb Gardener.....
I know they are autos.. what im saying is.. run their daytime at your nightime so you can take advantage of the lower night temps.. and keeps their night temps up in your day time..
sballo
Well-Known Member
Oh, I see but when the sun nicely shines, I like to keep them on the balcony and let them naturally sunbathing for around 8 hours...Then it gets shadowy on the balcony.
I am more considering buying a small portable air conditioner fan. I wanted to buy it anyway.
My oscillating fans run at the same time as my lights, they both point at the middle of the room and are mounted just above the canopy.
My room got up to just over 40C last crop and the 2x oscillating fans. an air intake and filtered exhaust fan and an aircon under (grow room air intake) just kept things going, I am sure this prolonged my budding time but the plants were well established...all that heat and blasted by wind early on may be stressing yours a bit @sballo.
sballo
Well-Known Member
Hi there!
I wanted to post about my findings of the PPM measuring.
First off, this is the TDS meter that I bought:
hmdigital.com
It seems to be reliable. I tested it with distilled water and it showed 1ppm.
Anyway, I proceeded as follows:
I did not use the tap water yesterday because I am still waiting (24-48 hours) to let the water in the buckets evaporate. I used some mineral water instead.
I measured the PPM of the mineral water: it was 56 PPm
Then I added the nutrients : Calimag, Flora (Micro-Grow, Bloom) . Then I adjusted the PH to around 6
Then I measured the PPM. It was 550
I fed the plants and let water run off in order to measure the PPM of the runoff.
plant 1 (Margot) 692ppm
plant 2 (Shoko) 668ppm
plant 3 (Elisabeth) 866pm
According to the explanation of this guy here:
we can have three possible scenarious:
1. Run off lower than feeding = the plants absorbed the nutrients
2 Run off same than feeding = the plants didn't absorb the nutrients
3. Run off higher than feeding = a nutrient lockout
So, in my case, there should be nutrient lockout
Honestly I cannot really believe this theory because
Anyway, I watered my three ladies today again (only water with PH adjusted)
The run off was:
plant 1 (Margot) 552ppm
plant 2 (Shoko) 669 ppm
plant 3 (Elisabeth) 696pm
apart from Shoko, the level of ppm of the other two ladies dropped. It makes sense. It means that the plant absorbed nutrients.
I still do not know what is the right and reliable method to measure the ppm thus make sure to monitor the right amount of ppm avoiding both the underfeeding and the overfeeding
I wanted to post about my findings of the PPM measuring.
First off, this is the TDS meter that I bought:
TDS-EZ – HM Digital
hmdigital.com
It seems to be reliable. I tested it with distilled water and it showed 1ppm.
Anyway, I proceeded as follows:
I did not use the tap water yesterday because I am still waiting (24-48 hours) to let the water in the buckets evaporate. I used some mineral water instead.
I measured the PPM of the mineral water: it was 56 PPm
Then I added the nutrients : Calimag, Flora (Micro-Grow, Bloom) . Then I adjusted the PH to around 6
Then I measured the PPM. It was 550
I fed the plants and let water run off in order to measure the PPM of the runoff.
plant 1 (Margot) 692ppm
plant 2 (Shoko) 668ppm
plant 3 (Elisabeth) 866pm
According to the explanation of this guy here:
we can have three possible scenarious:
1. Run off lower than feeding = the plants absorbed the nutrients
2 Run off same than feeding = the plants didn't absorb the nutrients
3. Run off higher than feeding = a nutrient lockout
So, in my case, there should be nutrient lockout
Honestly I cannot really believe this theory because
- I cannot imagine that the plants immediately absorb nutrients as fast as the water travels through the soil and come out
- How is it possible that the run off water is lower if we consider that the soil itself must have a specific level of ppm !? Even if we measured only the ppm of the soil in the pot we would read a certain amount of ppm, wouldn't we? Of course we would! That is why when feeding, of course the run off water is higher since we are mathematically adding the ppm level of the soil itself in the pot PLUS the water with nutrients = higher level of ppm, of course!
Anyway, I watered my three ladies today again (only water with PH adjusted)
The run off was:
plant 1 (Margot) 552ppm
plant 2 (Shoko) 669 ppm
plant 3 (Elisabeth) 696pm
apart from Shoko, the level of ppm of the other two ladies dropped. It makes sense. It means that the plant absorbed nutrients.
I still do not know what is the right and reliable method to measure the ppm thus make sure to monitor the right amount of ppm avoiding both the underfeeding and the overfeeding
If you were growing in an inert medium instead of a soil mix measuring becomes easy but in soil you have many variables (even if you make your own recipe) as the soil has nutrients of its own and when you water solids and salts could be making your readings higher after going through your substrate.
I really only ever used my TDS meter in closed-loop NFT, or flood and drain type setups (1400ppm was my sweet spot for my White Rhino but my Incredible Bulk likes nutes a bit weaker, 1200ppm seems OK) where the nutrients are used for a couple of weeks before swapping for fresh.
Hopefully someone with more experience with dirt can chime in and help you.
I really only ever used my TDS meter in closed-loop NFT, or flood and drain type setups (1400ppm was my sweet spot for my White Rhino but my Incredible Bulk likes nutes a bit weaker, 1200ppm seems OK) where the nutrients are used for a couple of weeks before swapping for fresh.
Hopefully someone with more experience with dirt can chime in and help you.
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