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Grow Cultivation Q and A

No regrets with Amare's Pro 300W. LEDs (and autos) were the inspiration to resume growing. So much easier then MH.



Clearly, you have much to teach all of us (except maybe @ataxian, of course).
@Disrupt I love to grow (outdoor's or indoor's) I have done both. OUTDOOR'S bigger yeild's

It's cheap where I am so my wife won't let me? I buy it now however growing is fun!

In the 70's is was free in HAWAii.
SURFER's sent it to LAX back in the day!
 
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What a great thread! @LesPlenty I'm in agreement in that growing is highly overcomplicated. Your comment made me think of this vid:

I was intimidated by growing a couple of years ago, and when I finally grew 3 plants, in airpots, carried around the yard to take advantage of sun/garage, everything just grew. So last year I tossed a couple of wee plants directly into garden soil and pretty much ignored them. 3 males were removed, leaving 7 plants. 4 of them grew very nicely! They got an occasional spritz of cinnamon water to repel pests, and occasionally some sort of fertilizer, but thats it. This year there's a 315 ceramic light, which is supposed to be 'like' a 600 watt light, but draw less power. Thanks for the great ideas!

Here's a video I've been watching for ideas to self-water some sub-irrigated 50 gallon drums (cut in half they will be easy to maintain. Probably. Next year.)
 
Long, long time ago when I was growing.
I've done mud, coco and hydro. NFT and aeroponics.
Hydro being my favourite, especially as there are some organic nutrients available these days.
I was a heavy pruner on the day I changed over the clocks.
I'd usually leave one or two nodes and their associated leaves and the grow tip, I didn't want to be pruning lots of little buds off great long stems.
Lollipops, bog brushes or donkey dicks they all mean one huge cola.
These colas always got stripped back for drying purposes, sugar leaves removed at the same time.
I wanted to dry the bud, not the bud and it's stalk.
My timing regime was different to what you see everywhere else, I'd run 24 hour light for vegging.
This gave me much quicker veg times.
Flower times are a guesstimate and should be taken with a pinch of salt, I wanted couch lock so always went over by a couple of weeks, or months in the case of one full sativa grow.
It ended up an obsession rather than a hobby and I was getting top shelf buds.
Flushed with just water for three or more weeks in a hydro set up I was achieving the same quality buds as I'd buy in Amsterdam.
I miss growing but there is no way I could start up again. Too much of a risk with shit consequences if I got a visit.
Time will come I'll do it again.
 
Long, long time ago when I was growing.
I've done mud, coco and hydro. NFT and aeroponics.
Hydro being my favourite, especially as there are some organic nutrients available these days.
I was a heavy pruner on the day I changed over the clocks.
I'd usually leave one or two nodes and their associated leaves and the grow tip, I didn't want to be pruning lots of little buds off great long stems.
Lollipops, bog brushes or donkey dicks they all mean one huge cola.
These colas always got stripped back for drying purposes, sugar leaves removed at the same time.
I wanted to dry the bud, not the bud and it's stalk.
My timing regime was different to what you see everywhere else, I'd run 24 hour light for vegging.
This gave me much quicker veg times.
Flower times are a guesstimate and should be taken with a pinch of salt, I wanted couch lock so always went over by a couple of weeks, or months in the case of one full sativa grow.
It ended up an obsession rather than a hobby and I was getting top shelf buds.
Flushed with just water for three or more weeks in a hydro set up I was achieving the same quality buds as I'd buy in Amsterdam.
I miss growing but there is no way I could start up again. Too much of a risk with shit consequences if I got a visit.
Time will come I'll do it again.
I did not smoke pot until 1970!
Vaporization 2012!

1980 we grew CANNABIS in HAWAII without seed just the Natural element's: (rain, wind, soil, sun).
DA ONLY thing we did was keep the grass taller than da COLAS!

Pruning & supercropping is how we did it.
Our COLAS were 3-5 long. (Feet)

In 1972 in MEXICO surfng we bought handfulls of COLA's with seed's 4 feet long x 3 = $10 USA money
PUERTO ESCONDIO (Mexico)
AMSTERDAM 1991 WHITE WIDOW with my ESPRESSO.
I refused the tobacco 4 mixing?
 
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I changed my plants to flower 12/12 light cycle 5 days ago, all the plants looked good. I checked them today as I am about to swap my nutrients over to flower juice and noticed 2 plants with wilted yellow/brown leaves (they were not next to each other in the grow room). I checked the leaves over with a jewelers loop but cannot see any insect activity, any ideas?
IMG_20180808_183615.jpg IMG_20180808_183711.jpg IMG_20180808_183337.jpg IMG_20180808_183122_HDR.jpg
 
I changed my plants to flower 12/12 light cycle 5 days ago, all the plants looked good. I checked them today as I am about to swap my nutrients over to flower juice and noticed 2 plants with wilted yellow/brown leaves (they were not next to each other in the grow room). I checked the leaves over with a jewelers loop but cannot see any insect activity, any ideas?
View attachment 4329 View attachment 4330 View attachment 4331 View attachment 4332

Looking back in this thread you advocated putting tiny plants in flower. When you change the light schedule to flower its a stressful time for plants. Growing and rooting hormones change to flowering hormones causing a mixed up and stressed plants for 1-3 weeks. First there's a big grow push (the stretch), then when flowering hormones dominate flowering starts. Its also a time bugs can get a foot hold. Because of this I like to start a flowering period when my plants are doing great and growing fast. Healthy and strong plants deal with stress much better. That momentum is big.

As to your current problem idk. If you were growing in soil, I'd suspect too much water. In hydro I don't have enough experience to make an educated guess. I'll venture some uneducated guesses tho, lol.

Maybe not enough air getting to the roots, or not enough light to the affected leaves? During the stretch plants sometimes will steal nitrogen from older leaves to help fuel growth, but IME those leaves turn yellow and dry up.
 
I changed my plants to flower 12/12 light cycle 5 days ago, all the plants looked good. I checked them today as I am about to swap my nutrients over to flower juice and noticed 2 plants with wilted yellow/brown leaves (they were not next to each other in the grow room). I checked the leaves over with a jewelers loop but cannot see any insect activity, any ideas?
View attachment 4329 View attachment 4330 View attachment 4331 View attachment 4332

Could be a Phosphorus deficiency or Nitrogen deficiency, usually the result of PH issues at the roots. Check out this plant diag page.

Is it just lower leaves affected?
 
My other 16 plants look great, the ph is 6.1 and I an using Canna nutrients in a large tank that feeds all the plants so it should not be a nutrient problem. I will flush out with water and change to bud juice and will spray the affected plants with pyrethrum and se how they go.
I am still getting used to this new strain to me.
 
My other 16 plants look great, the ph is 6.1 and I an using Canna nutrients in a large tank that feeds all the plants so it should not be a nutrient problem. I will flush out with water and change to bud juice and will spray the affected plants with pyrethrum and se how they go.
I am still getting used to this new strain to me.
Greetings,

I noticed that you're mentioning using pyrethrum to deal with bugs on your plants. You may already be aware, but pyrethrins are known to be toxic in humans.

It is true that within safe limits, pyrethrum can be considered safe for use as a pesticide on crops intended for human consumption. This is also true for cannabis, when we're eating it. To be toxic in a human when eaten, pyrethrum requires larger doses than what we'd ever be likely to find in edible cannabis. However, the same cannot be said for inhalation. Inhalation of pyrethrins is toxic at comparatively much lower doses than via ingestion and that toxicity is linked to a number of reasonably serious health risks.

It doesn't seem like you're spraying pyrethrum onto flowering plants, which is good (this is one of the most problematic ways that one could use this product). However, at present, I am aware that some legalized jurisdictions around the world that test cannabis products have noted levels of both pyrethrum and piperonyl butoxide (a compound that is frequently also included in pyrethrum based pesticides to increase insecticidal efficacy of the accompanying pyrethrins IIRC) in finished cannabis samples that far exceed levels that are considered to be safe for human inhalation. The jury is out on whether these toxic levels of pyrethrum will be found in the flowers harvested from all plants treated with pyrethrins, regardless of that plants stage of development, or only those so treated when flowering.

Similarly, as of my latest reading this year, it appears as if the scientific and medical literature are not settled on whether pyrethrins are safe to use at all on cannabis crops that are intended for inhalation (whether in veg or flower). As a result, I'd advise against using these pesticides wherever possible. Obviously I only mention this as advice which you may take or leave :peace: I respect your right to decide for yourself what to do with your plants, but I thought I'd be remiss not to share this with you.

By the way, I have read that growing pyrethrum daisies (the variety of daisies that pyrethrin pesticides are extracted from) around your plants can be a useful and safer way to gain the pesticidal benefits of pyrethrum. The mere presence of these pyrethrum containing plants has been said to keep pests away without contaminating your crop with potentially toxic levels of pyrethrins and other compounds like piperonyl butoxide. This is similar to how outdoor cannabis growers in Jamaica have been observed to grow neem plants around their cannabis crops, to gain the benefits of those plants without spraying neem oil directly onto their plants. May be worth a try if these complimentary plants are amenable to your situation!

With all that said, I hope that whatever you do, the ladies manage to bounce back from these growing pains and we can see some pics of some great nugs from them in the future :biggrin:
 
Thanks for the tip, I never usually spray anything on my flowering plants, but as they have only been on the flower cycle for less than a week I figured it was the least harmful pesticide I have. I don`t believe the problem is bugs, I am just being over weary as I had them not so long ago in my mumma.
I think they might just have been stressed.
OK, no more pesticides in bud cycle.:thumbsup:
 
Thanks for the tip, I never usually spray anything on my flowering plants, but as they have only been on the flower cycle for less than a week I figured it was the least harmful pesticide I have. I don`t believe the problem is bugs, I am just being over weary as I had them not so long ago in my mumma.
I think they might just have been stressed.
OK, no more pesticides in bud cycle.:thumbsup:
Oh man, I've never had the good fortune to be able to grow for myself, but I've always thought that protecting mothers from bugs and disease especially as time goes on must be quite a challenge! After all, mothers tend to have a much longer lifespan than plants intended to be flowered and harvested... I can appreciate your extra caution as a result of that. If you can, definitely try to avoid spraying pyrethrum based pesticides even on vegging plants too man - the jury is still out on whether even spraying in veg is also dangerous.

By the way, another great organic and non-toxic solution to keep crawling insects at bay is to create a protective barrier around the plant and also by liberally sprinkling diatomaceous earth on surfaces where the insects are known to travel. This stuff kills non-suckling crawling insects (prime examples include roaches, spiders and their mites), in no small part by preventing them from being able to take in fluids. We should keep in mind that this solution would be less effective in an outdoor context because rain will render the DE ineffective against crawling insects until the DE has dried out again (this drying is a reasonably quick process, after all, DE is predominately composed of silica!). This is a scientifically verified approach in various entomological journals, DE is tried and true when it comes to organic, non-toxic control of crawling insects. My buddy who is a home pest control guy also swears by the stuff!

Obviously, DE won't help to control flying insects but as I mentioned above, I have heard good things about growing pyrethrum daisies in locations proximal to your cannabis plants for that purpose :)
 
My other 16 plants look great, the ph is 6.1 and I an using Canna nutrients in a large tank that feeds all the plants so it should not be a nutrient problem. I will flush out with water and change to bud juice and will spray the affected plants with pyrethrum and se how they go.
I am still getting used to this new strain to me.

What kind of hydro setup are you running bud?

Just curious.
 
It was explained on page 2, but here you go;
http://www.autopot.com.au/

These are available in many sizes to suit different needs.
 
My two penneth on flowering tiny plants.
When I ran some NL#5 I took cuttings from the mother and set them on 12/12 after 10 days.
This was using hydro and the 1" rockwool cubes.
Only one cutting was showing roots when I put them in the 3" cubes and it was about 4" tall.
It ended up at least 4' tall and had just under 4oz on it after 11 weeks.
Healthy plants will cope with a bit of abuse.
The higher the percentage of sativa in a plant means they can be flowered early as they keep growing until you deck them.
Indicas tend to stop stretching and fill out which makes them ideal for rooms with limited head height.
I say the NL#5 was about 4' tall it would have been bigger but I had to bend it down many times so it didn't hit the light.
This was in a wardrobe which was just under 4' long and 16" wide, with a 600w sodium in it.
 
My two penneth on flowering tiny plants.
When I ran some NL#5 I took cuttings from the mother and set them on 12/12 after 10 days.
This was using hydro and the 1" rockwool cubes.
Only one cutting was showing roots when I put them in the 3" cubes and it was about 4" tall.
It ended up at least 4' tall and had just under 4oz on it after 11 weeks.
Healthy plants will cope with a bit of abuse.
The higher the percentage of sativa in a plant means they can be flowered early as they keep growing until you deck them.
Indicas tend to stop stretching and fill out which makes them ideal for rooms with limited head height.

I say the NL#5 was about 4' tall it would have been bigger but I had to bend it down many times so it didn't hit the light.
This was in a wardrobe which was just under 4' long and 16" wide, with a 600w sodium in it.

I don't have or have I ever grown any sativas that keep on growing in flower, and I've grown a few. While this may be true to some land race plants or a few others like the flo, but most sativa dominate crosses stop growing after the stretch (first 3 weeks of flowering) and concentrate their energies to making buds.

Some naturally grow faster and bigger than others for sure. In my 8 years of indoor growing in a scrog I've grown indica dominate plants along with sativa dominates together many times. To make up for the slower growing plants I take slower growing plants cuts earlier than faster plants, and I adjust the plant height under the screen with styrofoam blocks. Because of the scrog, I put all the plants in flower at the same time, but harvest takes place over 2-3 weeks as plants ripen. It's not perfect but it works reasonably well.

Edit : for anyone that does not know a scrog is a screen of green. Plants grow through a screen, in my case fencing with 2x4 openings. This style is to make an even canopy so light gets to all budding sites evenly.
 
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most sativa dominate crosses stop growing after the stretch (first 3 weeks of flowering) and concentrate their energies to making buds.
My old White Rhino would stop upward growth after 4 weeks of 12/12, still getting used to this new one, Incredible Bulk (80%Indica, 20%Sativa supposedly).
We will see, new pictures tomorrow, I hope they are looking better, ready for their weekly photo shoot.:thumbsup:
 
@Shredder I also did a run of Kali Mist which would not stop growing. I had to put the 3'-4' plants in buckets at 45° as I knew they'd hit the ceiling.
They were trained to grow around an 8' square space and it was a constant battle with bits of string all over the place to keep them down.
And because I was only managing the grow and it wasn't my electric bill I let them flower for 16 weeks before I got fed up and decked them.
Non stop growth and new buds all the way thru.
It was without a doubt the most frustrating grow I've ever done.
White Widow, Skunk 1 and Northern Lights were much easier to look after.
We are talking over 15 years ago when I KM was quite a new strain.
Another edit.
I also did something give to me as Red Dawn which was the complete opposite with the shortest internodal length I've ever seen. Grew to about 8" with a quarter of bud on top of a mass of leaves, reminded me of an African Violet.
 
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@Shredder I also did a run of Kali Mist which would not stop growing. I had to put the 3'-4' plants in buckets at 45° as I knew they'd hit the ceiling.
They were trained to grow around an 8' square space and it was a constant battle with bits of string all over the place to keep them down.
And because I was only managing the grow and it wasn't my electric bill I let them flower for 16 weeks before I got fed up and decked them.
Non stop growth and new buds all the way thru.
It was without a doubt the most frustrating grow I've ever done.
White Widow, Skunk 1 and Northern Lights were much easier to look after.
We are talking over 15 years ago when I KM was quite a new strain.
Another edit.
I also did something give to me as Red Dawn which was the complete opposite with the shortest internodal length I've ever seen. Grew to about 8" with a quarter of bud on top of a mass of leaves, reminded me of an African Violet.

I've actually grown Kali mist as well. A nice plant as I recall. I lost it years ago but I don't remember it growing too wild. Back in my old compassion club I did a cloning demo on one and gave away literally dozens of clones to medical card holders.

I'm currently growing columbian gold and its a crazy stretcher. I have Velcro tape holding down multiple branches. And at about week six in flower I'll have to support those same branches as the buds get too heavy for the stems to support. That's a pet peeve in a lot of popular plants. Breeders don't seem to breed decent plant structure.

In my garden blue dream is another big stretcher with weak stems. I've grown it for years, and like the buds, but it's not a fun one to try to control.
 
I'm trying to wrap my head around what method would be best for me; should I pull the trigger on growing. I know some of you grow in organic soil (I'm looking at you @Shredder :biggrin:) and some of you grow hydroponically. No where in all of our discussions have I seen coco mentioned. Do any of you use coco as your medium for growing?
 
I like perlite as I can use it over and over again, with a wash in between crops of course!
 

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