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Vape SHOW US YOUR BALLS - Ball vapes - user experience and comparisons

I was going to start with and Auber rdk 300b and A couple of 20mm open end coils
View attachment 40780View attachment 40781View attachment 40782View attachment 40783

Was wondering what wrapping the titanium chamber from the Ditanium would produce
It may work better than the nozzle on the Ditanium since it would nullify the accidental combustion when the material contacts the hot metal of the nozzle
Possibly the circled piece could be used with screens top and bottom (maybe circlips) to hold the balls in place

I'm not sure though as I don't have or know the dimensions of the ditanium parts you have

Any of these ballers work best with the coil as form fit and snug to the centre post as possible, surrounding the area where balls are the most
IMG_20221010_164748.jpg
 
Possibly the circled piece could be used with screens top and bottom (maybe circlips) to hold the balls in place

I'm not sure though as I don't have or know the dimensions of the ditanium parts you have

Any of these ballers work best with the coil as form fit and snug to the centre post as possible, surrounding the area where balls are the most
View attachment 40803


I was thinking of trying to wrap the coil around the ti piece filled with ruby pearls but the conical shape makes me think manipulating the coil may be impossible
The conical shape is what would make it an effective injector
How do these coils respond to heating up enough to manipulate them?
 
I was thinking of trying to wrap the coil around the ti piece filled with ruby pearls but the conical shape makes me think manipulating the coil may be impossible
The conical shape is what would make it an effective injector
How do these coils respond to heating up enough to manipulate them?
I would not try bending it while hot - sounds like burny fun times
They are designed to stay solid at high temps

They are softish enough to bend with pliers and hands and screwdrivers if you're good with your hands and patient while cold

But either way needs force and I wouldn't try hot or think it to be easier in any way
The one I circled is the best as more contact on the pole and coil is the goods
 
I would not try bending it while hot - sounds like burny fun times
They are designed to stay solid at high temps

They are softish enough to bend with pliers and hands and screwdrivers if you're good with your hands and patient while cold

But either way needs force and I wouldn't try hot or think it to be easier in any way
The one I circled is the best as more contact on the pole and coil is the goods

Wasn't sure if hitting it with a torch would work

I have degenerative joint disease so I'm limited to how long I can do things that require fine motor skills
Own close to 30 vices of different sizes, shapes and function

Think I'll follow your lead and put something together with some glass
 
Wasn't sure if hitting it with a torch would work

I have degenerative joint disease so I'm limited to how long I can do things that require fine motor skills
Own close to 30 vices of different sizes, shapes and function

Think I'll follow your lead and put something together with some glass
Just be patient and take your time
It happens it bits
Careful with the glass
And if you need, take breaks and come back later

It isn't too hard, just becomes fiddly and maybe sore fingers if you are prone
Do it in parts you should be okay
Vices may help, I found it easier having thing in my hands to manipulate etc

Good luck mate with your playing


I just read of a person who put 3mm balls in his plenty heater
Opened the screen on the heater and chucked balls down the holes
Reckons it made it go a bit harder
Interesting thought, mine already pumps after modding the temp dial
 
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I have bought/built

Pinky, Brain, Titi - DiY ceramic welding nozzle, glass welding nozzle, Titanium Shovelhead post creations with screens top and bottom to hold the balls in and a 20mm coil around the outside.
DC Elev8R - uses a 16mm coil and has a small air inlet hole which creates some restriction in comparison but fits in the same group as above imo
Inversion Sand Castle Vapour Wand - DiY 19 or 14mm joint Quartz stems, filled with balls held in place with screens, that you heat with a torch.
Logs like the SSV, LSV and Highlighter - DiY efforts using borosilicate glass tubes with soldering iron elements, heater cartridges, halogen bulbs, resistance wire ... and balls inside
Whippies - DiY with whip adapters this time, like the Halo, Atlas and G43 with heater carts, halogens, resistance wire .... as above but in the same form factor as a Herborizer
Glass Symphonies - DiY again :) using different style laboratory 19/26, 24/29, 29/40 joint claisen adapters, thermometer tubes, and a 6 x 100mm temp controlled heater rod, with and without balls inside.
Cannabis Hardware B series - I've got the bits to make the b1, b2, injector and 22mm bottom; and the b0 (20mmm coil and Titanium housing)
And a few others lol

With which, I generally use the short Qaroma dimpled bowl or a Herborizer bowl when I need more depth

You can fill them with many different materials but the heater coils are sloooooow things to react so rubies are very popular at the moment as they are slow to heat and cool, inert, super tough and durable so they can be heated and cooled with no fear of degradation over time.
Smaller balls sit together tighter with smaller gaps so the density, draw restriction, surface area ... are all higher. Which effects things :)
I generally use 3mm Rubies where I can, altho some of the above have 2.5 or 4mm Ruby or borosilicate balls inside (and then there's the GS with layers of different size balls lol)

Sorry to sound neg but the B2 isn't worth it imo as the concentrate in the dish gets heated to just the right temp so it turns to vapour which then passes through the balls which are hotter so I think it's getting overcooked. For less money than the difference between the B1 and the B2 + CH carb cap you can buy yourself a compatible coil, banger and carb cap combination that will out perform the B2, so that's my recommendation for dabbing.

The knock off Qaromas and the genuine QXL are winking at me and tickling my VAS to be my next baller purchases
And still on the lookout for 25mm barrel coil with an XLR connection to make a 25mm Brain, if anyone has seen any?
 
I have bought/built

Pinky, Brain, Titi - DiY ceramic welding nozzle, glass welding nozzle, Titanium Shovelhead post creations with screens top and bottom to hold the balls in and a 20mm coil around the outside.
DC Elev8R - uses a 16mm coil and has a small air inlet hole which creates some restriction in comparison but fits in the same group as above imo
Inversion Sand Castle Vapour Wand - DiY 19 or 14mm joint Quartz stems, filled with balls held in place with screens, that you heat with a torch.
Logs like the SSV, LSV and Highlighter - DiY efforts using borosilicate glass tubes with soldering iron elements, heater cartridges, halogen bulbs, resistance wire ... and balls inside
Whippies - DiY with whip adapters this time, like the Halo, Atlas and G43 with heater carts, halogens, resistance wire .... as above but in the same form factor as a Herborizer
Glass Symphonies - DiY again :) using different style laboratory 19/26, 24/29, 29/40 joint claisen adapters, thermometer tubes, and a 6 x 100mm temp controlled heater rod, with and without balls inside.
Cannabis Hardware B series - I've got the bits to make the b1, b2, injector and 22mm bottom; and the b0 (20mmm coil and Titanium housing)
And a few others lol

With which, I generally use the short Qaroma dimpled bowl or a Herborizer bowl when I need more depth

You can fill them with many different materials but the heater coils are sloooooow things to react so rubies are very popular at the moment as they are slow to heat and cool, inert, super tough and durable so they can be heated and cooled with no fear of degradation over time.
Smaller balls sit together tighter with smaller gaps so the density, draw restriction, surface area ... are all higher. Which effects things :)
I generally use 3mm Rubies where I can, altho some of the above have 2.5 or 4mm Ruby or borosilicate balls inside (and then there's the GS with layers of different size balls lol)

Sorry to sound neg but the B2 isn't worth it imo as the concentrate in the dish gets heated to just the right temp so it turns to vapour which then passes through the balls which are hotter so I think it's getting overcooked. For less money than the difference between the B1 and the B2 + CH carb cap you can buy yourself a compatible coil, banger and carb cap combination that will out perform the B2, so that's my recommendation for dabbing.

The knock off Qaromas and the genuine QXL are winking at me and tickling my VAS to be my next baller purchases
And still on the lookout for 25mm barrel coil with an XLR connection to make a 25mm Brain, if anyone has seen any?
Nice collection
I agree about the B2 and dabs
It gets burnt the second time through the balls
Taroma or Ali version it goes through the balls once and tastes okay
Also agree about 3mm in general are the go

Still not what you dab on if you love dabs, just for double deckers

My 400/600 ruby jobbie above is tasty AF and I found some high temp lab glass gogs (one with an 18m exit so could be an injector) so there will be no issues with people worrying about cracking the gog

I think the Ali shop linked above that makes the baller heads has 25mm coils
(Not 100% sure) if you message he may be able to make some for you
 
Been enjoying my diy qxxl today
Am always watching in case it cracks as I was warned but so far so good
It hits pretty hard tbh
Two of those basket screen loads in a row and you're pretty damn buzzed

I've seen Troy saying that he thought his qaroma tasted okay but he had to have the temps really low and by the time the temps were high enough to perform similar to the Ti the flavour was similar anyway
I do know he seems to have a favouring for ch though
Funny enough he also has been saying that he likes his B0 more lately of the Bseries

Anyway
With my ruby and glass version I run it at 580/590 the same as my Taroma and it hits hard and tastes good
No threads to break either although once put together I don't know why this is an issue
Maybe because I have been able to form fit my coil better as I don't have to worry about breaking it and with the extra ruby mine performs better
I guess the gog has thinner walls too so that will help with heat transfer to the balls (I have been thinking what would be a good design is the tlite size chamber and thin walls, but with an enclosed head)
You can't form fit and force the coil on the centre post in the qaroma like the Taroma in case of breakage
This one I have access to get it perfect

I'm looking at some lab glass gogs that should work and there won't be an issue of cracking
I still think this gog shouldn't crack - people have said they think it will so I'm cautious in case and am looking at the lab glass ones

More impressed today with the hit than prior though
Only thing preventing this do bigger things is the bowl size in the current construction
It goes hard for the basket loads

I also stretched the coil further down the glass to cover more of the balls at the bottom
This helped the performance a bit
IMG20221011021934.jpg
IMG20221011021952.jpg
IMG20221011022340.jpg
IMG20221011022420.jpg
IMG20221002043148.jpg
IMG20221014204800.jpg
 
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Where did you get the unground jointed cleisen bowl?
 
Where did you get the unground jointed cleisen bowl?
AU $22.00 31%OFF | 14mm Male To 18mm Female Glass Adapter Attachment Built-in 20pcs Holes Glass Filter Screen with 10mm Plug Style Carb
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPpccao

From our mate bc2vape on Ali who has the most affordable Titanium baller you can get and all other parts needed for such vapes- can't really see it performing any less than as good as my Taroma tbh
 
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Been enjoying my diy qxxl today
Am always watching in case it cracks as I was warned but so far so good
It hits pretty hard tbh
Two of those basket screen loads in a row and you're pretty damn buzzed

I've seen Troy saying that he thought his qaroma tasted okay but he had to have the temps really low and by the time the temps were high enough to perform similar to the Ti the flavour was similar anyway
I do know he seems to have a favouring for ch though
Funny enough he also has been saying that he likes his B0 more lately of the Bseries

Anyway
With my ruby and glass version I run it at 580/590 the same as my Taroma and it hits hard and tastes good
No threads to break either although once put together I don't know why this is an issue
Maybe because I have been able to form fit my coil better as I don't have to worry about breaking it and with the extra ruby mine performs better
I guess the gog has thinner walls too so that will help with heat transfer to the balls (I have been thinking what would be a good design is the tlite size chamber and thin walls, but with an enclosed head)
You can't form fit and force the coil on the centre post in the qaroma like the Taroma in case of breakage
This one I have access to get it perfect

I'm looking at some lab glass gogs that should work and there won't be an issue of cracking
I still think this gog shouldn't crack - people have said they think it will so I'm cautious in case and am looking at the lab glass ones

More impressed today with the hit than prior though
Only thing preventing this do bigger things is the bowl size in the current construction
It goes hard for the basket loads

I also stretched the coil further down the glass to cover more of the balls at the bottom
This helped the performance a bit
View attachment 40963View attachment 40964View attachment 40965View attachment 40966View attachment 40967View attachment 40968


Think I'll try your idea with the female adapter and use it on the titanium filling chamber from the Ditanium
IMG_20221008_232758.jpg

I'm going to immobilized the coil and adapter and use the jak stand to raise and lower the filling chamber
IMG_20221016_125335.jpg
 
Interesting new one
See what I mean - a guy made this and is now selling them - and people are lining up to buy them....
I really was joking earlier, but if people are buying the below device instead of making their own (it's torch driven so no construction needed) - maybe I should make a thread and sell my diy to whoever can't be bothered making their own (I get he has his ball pinched stem there though that would add to the purchase)
Baffles me sometimes though

Anyway
The pic below is nice tech and I can see how it works.....

I like all this simple but more effective tech happening
It's come full circle to the screen in a tube and lighter method at the start
Maybe a case of the "business" and fancy tech getting in the way of the performance we were always looking for - and apparently only a step or two away from in the beginning

Great to see my simple design or the one below being so effective and out performing many of the other expensive vapes
I also love that whether you prefer to buy or make one, people can/are sharing the ideas and knowledge and now lots of people are experimenting and creating around the similar ideas with new versions

Like open source software in computers

That's called for the community :)

Looks cool though - the baller DV hahaha
Just careful with the burny bits

B6979449-EACD-44-C5-833-D-B559-BC02389-B.png
 
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Interesting new one
See what I mean - a guy made this and is now selling them - and people are lining up to buy them....
I really was joking earlier, but if people are buying the below device instead of making their own (it's torch driven so no construction needed) - maybe I should make a thread and sell my diy to whoever can't be bothered making their own (I get he has his ball pinched stem there though that would add to the purchase)
Baffles me sometimes though

Anyway
The pic below is nice tech and I can see how it works.....

I like all this simple but more effective tech happening
It's come full circle to the screen in a tube and lighter method at the start
Maybe a case of the "business" and fancy tech getting in the way of the performance we were always looking for - and apparently only a step or two away from in the beginning

Great to see my simple design or the one below being so effective and out performing many of the other expensive vapes
I also love that whether you prefer to buy or make one, people can/are sharing the ideas and knowledge and now lots of people are experimenting and creating around the similar ideas with new versions

Like open source software in computers

That's called for the community :)

Looks cool though - the baller DV hahaha
Just careful with the burny bits

View attachment 41079


So is that a glass stem (1 hitter) connected to an adapter using a clip

When I expanded the picture to look at the "cap" end I was trying to figure out what was wrapped around the end of the bat/one hitter
Did I miss the description or can you elaborate?
Looks like a rolled up screen

Selling them as kits and already assembled would appeal to a wider customer base
Think most folks worry about getting the right parts
 
Got my b2cvape gear today and am ultrasonic cleaning it all and will say the 'ruby' balls he sells are...

Made From Premium Natural Red Agate​

As opposed to synthetic grown ruby, they do not look as nice but hopefully have the same heat characteristics.
Here is the difference in looks (synthetic on left),
1666058899903.jpg

No problem in a Ti head but I would want the synthetic ones if in a quartz head and could be seen.
The other bits,
1666061242079.jpg
 
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Haha, the synthetic rubies ended up being gem cut not plain round (no wonder they were so sparkly),
1666059890600.jpg

Time to see how Aliexpress returns go compared to DHGate...PayPal protection if they don't help.:horse:
Might have to get som SiC balls underway...more sizes to chose from too...maybe 3.5mm for something different?
 
Haha, the synthetic rubies ended up being gem cut not plain round (no wonder they were so sparkly),
View attachment 41136
Time to see how Aliexpress returns go compared to DHGate...PayPal protection if they don't help.:horse:
Might have to get som SiC balls underway...more sizes to chose from too...maybe 3.5mm for something different?
I think I showed you that link
But I had told you they weren't round
Should still work the same though more or less
 

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