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Extraction Dabpress Rosin Plates

@GreenHopper I love the last two pics.... they look like a steampunk alien and a grasshopper to me. Lol... sort of appropriate for your avatar. :biggrin:

Looks like you got some nice rosin even if the yield wasn't what you had hoped.

I can confirm the rosin is good, been quite spaced the last hour. :ko:

Haha, steampunk alien, I was thinking exactly the same as you which is why I flipped the image :wink:
 
@GreenHopper :clap: Looks great my friend! Thank you for the detailed squish!

I haven't used the PTFE sheets yet for pressing, but it almost looks like it indents a little more than parchment, maybe due to the thickness of the PTFE vs parchment? Thinking that may contribute to the oil not flowing out the front, if there's a micro-millimeter hump the oil has to get over to get out the front of the plates, it could barrier the oil some? Just a thought I had with no experience, just going by the photos. Also putting the puck about 1/3" in from the edge of the plates may help it flow out!

Your pressure is on the top end for the puck so I think you got most of the goodies out!

BTW, not sure if it was mentioned here but for calculating the PSI on the pucks with hr10t35v cylinder, I use this math -

PSI on gauge x 2.25 = total force applied
Total force applied / puck size in sq/in = PSI on the puck

2100 PSI on gauge x 2.25 = 4725 total force applied
4725 / (2" round finished puck diameter) 3.14 sq/in = ~1500 PSI on pressed puck.

I'd be curious to see what the yields are with 1000-1200 PSI on the puck with this same strain.
 
@GreenHopper :clap: Looks great my friend! Thank you for the detailed squish!

I haven't used the PTFE sheets yet for pressing, but it almost looks like it indents a little more than parchment, maybe due to the thickness of the PTFE vs parchment? Thinking that may contribute to the oil not flowing out the front, if there's a micro-millimeter hump the oil has to get over to get out the front of the plates, it could barrier the oil some? Just a thought I had with no experience, just going by the photos. Also putting the puck about 1/3" in from the edge of the plates may help it flow out!

Your pressure is on the top end for the puck so I think you got most of the goodies out!

BTW, not sure if it was mentioned here but for calculating the PSI on the pucks with hr10t35v cylinder, I use this math -

PSI on gauge x 2.25 = total force applied
Total force applied / puck size in sq/in = PSI on the puck

2100 PSI on gauge x 2.25 = 4725 total force applied
4725 / (2" round finished puck diameter) 3.14 sq/in = ~1500 PSI on pressed puck.

I'd be curious to see what the yields are with 1000-1200 PSI on the puck with this same strain.

You could well be right about the bump. The PTFE is basically really thin plastic so the indents are certainly pronounced.

I think my yeilds also seem a little low so I'm suspecting I'm only used mid level buds.

When I harvest, all trim and larfy buds go into the shake box.

The mids and highs dry for a bit but then all get placed in mason jars. I tend to shove the larger top quality buds in and then pack the empty space with medium sized buds. I susally can pack up to two layers like that into each jar.

I don't have much left at all, just that 1/2 a jar. I'll have a look and see what's in there.

RE Pressure: I'll drop the pressure a little next sqish, I'll keep it to your suggested 1000 - 1200psi and see how it goes.

Thanks @psychonaut
 
I am thinking if I spent a bit more time manicuring my buds and grading them separately I'd have higher yields, but I usually press my tops and mids together, trying to save the best for last. Seems to improve the product IME, I know there are a lot of people who love the fresh frozen trichomes, more power to 'em. I love cured resin, so much easier on my throat and lungs and the flavor and effects are great. I found that at the 6wk mark of curing the rosin started to become a joy to vape instead of, shit is this gonna make me cough out half my hit and boil off the rest of my dab?!

My autos are yielding in the 15% range, and my photos are showing 20%+ with my rough cut. I hope that's not bad, I know dispensary buds have given me 25% + fairly regularly but they were always dense nugs sun grown and usually over 20% THC content.

I've not settled on a strain yet though once I get some skunk #1 going I'll see if that is indeed my preferred meds, then I can improve on how to get the most out of that cultivar.

As to the pressure, apparently there's a fairly wide range that will give optimal yields, flower can even give great yields at 800 PSI but if you're low on meds and dont want to deal with washing or repressing the pucks to get the rest out, err'ing on the higher side of pressure ain't exactly a bad strategy IMO.
 
I am thinking if I spent a bit more time manicuring my buds and grading them separately I'd have higher yields

Been thinking the same.

I usually press my tops and mids together, trying to save the best for last. Seems to improve the product IME

That sounds like a reasonable approach to me.

I've only done 2x presses so far so I'm still in Rosin Kindergarten, I think I still have plenty of scope to improve.

One area I'm thinking I can improve in is in the grow. I think I'll leave the next batch (more GG#4 auto's) a little longer before harvesting. I believe @herbivore21 likes to leave his buds to mature for a little extra time before doing his bubble runs in order to produce more capitate stalks.

I love cured resin, so much easier on my throat and lungs and the flavor and effects are great. I found that at the 6wk mark of curing the rosin started to become a joy to vape instead of, shit is this gonna make me cough out half my hit and boil off the rest of my dab?!

Curing is the cure to rough weed (well one of the cures :biggrin:).

My autos are yielding in the 15% range, and my photos are showing 20%+ with my rough cut. I hope that's not bad, I know dispensary buds have given me 25% + fairly regularly but they were always dense nugs sun grown and usually over 20% THC content.

I think my GG auto is probably around the 15%. I may press that chip again to see if there's any more in there. Might as well, it's all part of the learning process.

I've not settled on a strain yet though once I get some skunk #1 going I'll see if that is indeed my preferred meds, then I can improve on how to get the most out of that cultivar.

I'm going to stick with the GG#4 auto for the next grow as I get great yields and the trim shakes well. I even cook the resulting shake into cannacaps so it's an easy win to replenish supplies.

The grow after that I can experiment with, might mixt up a few strains so I can try out a bunch. Think I'll be going skunk #1 a try, I hear good things.

As to the pressure, apparently there's a fairly wide range that will give optimal yields, flower can even give great yields at 800 PSI but if you're low on meds and dont want to deal with washing or repressing the pucks to get the rest out, err'ing on the higher side of pressure ain't exactly a bad strategy IMO.

What's the advantage of the lower pressure other than reducing the risk of blowout?

I get lowering the temp is beneficial for maintain flavour but if one can press at 1500psi without blow out then is lowering the pressure likely to improve yield? My logic would assume more pressure = squeeze more good stiff out, up to a point.

Nice posts @GreenHopper and @psychonaut
Thank you
Not bad returns and Great pics too
Love the details and info ppl
Cheers

Thanks felvapes, I'm happy with the return for now. Curious to see what a second pressing of that chip might yield.

Room for improvement but not a bad start.

Gonna be a few months before I have enough stash to play with though but it'll be a fun summer :biggrin:
 
I've only done 2x presses so far so I'm still in Rosin Kindergarten, I think I still have plenty of scope to improve.

One area I'm thinking I can improve in is in the grow. I think I'll leave the next batch (more GG#4 auto's) a little longer before harvesting. I believe @herbivore21 likes to leave his buds to mature for a little extra time before doing his bubble runs in order to produce more capitate stalks.

Yes you will, and it shouldn't take long with a gauge and full temp control! Then there will be surprises too that end up being improvements. Jar tech, isolation, TBH I'm even just barely scratching the surface over here, I've just pressed a lot of material from a variety of cultivars.

That sounds like a good plan, @herbivore21 has good info on all things resin!

I think my GG auto is probably around the 15%. I may press that chip again to see if there's any more in there. Might as well, it's all part of the learning process.

Yes, there are a lot of people getting an extra couple percent on a repress, and say it's even still very tasty. I think the ruderalis genetics in the autos are what give the lower yields, I could be completely wrong on this. And on that note, the majority of my genetics right now are autos lol I have the fruit mix from dutch passion, autofem, dacquiri lime, orange bud, and blueberry. I got some skunk #1 auto and kush auto from seedsman, diesel auto from royal queen. I should have went with the skunk #1 photo's but they didnt have fem. I'm kinda tired of the price of seeds TBH, thats why I was thinking about moving to skunk #1, they're pretty affordable.

I'm going to stick with the GG#4 auto for the next grow as I get great yields and the trim shakes well. I even cook the resulting shake into cannacaps so it's an easy win to replenish supplies.

The grow after that I can experiment with, might mixt up a few strains so I can try out a bunch. Think I'll be going skunk #1 a try, I hear good things.

Will be interested in the next grow for comparisons! Having a press on a fresh harvest gives a lot of opportunity to experiment =) I guess I'll have some reports on skunk #1 auto sometime next year.

What's the advantage of the lower pressure other than reducing the risk of blowout?

I get lowering the temp is beneficial for maintain flavour but if one can press at 1500psi without blow out then is lowering the pressure likely to improve yield? My logic would assume more pressure = squeeze more good stiff out, up to a point.

The thought is that yields have a range where they aren't as affected as much by the pressure applied, then you get to a point where you apply more pressure and start getting more yields with less cannabinoids, so plant matter of some sort. I have a feeling my lower pressure rosin (less yields) was more potent than my really high pressure rosin (more yields). I still need to test this theory out as I'm only recently pressing around or below 1k PSI.

Also the color of your rosin will be darker the more pressure you use. I can see it with the gauge, once you get to a certain point, usually around 1500-1600 PSI at the puck, it will change from a golden color to almost like a greenish bronze. This is also when you may start seeing the parchment tear.

I find the blowouts are mostly from just putting too much material in the filter, but I also havent ran too much pressure in a while, got tired of the paper ripping and getting oil on the plates =/

You are definitely off to a great start !
 
Our 10-ton cylinder that pairs to the hr10t35v rosin press is now available for sale as a seperate component. Useful for rental shops who may rent out a dabpress and the customer damages it, simple, easy replacement repaired by yourself instead of shipping the unit back for repair.

$140 - https://www.dabpress.com/products/1...th-dp-hr10t35v-hydraulic-cylinder-rosin-press

For hr10t35v owners, to purchase a replacement cylinder out of warranty, you will only be charged $70 + $30 shipping.

dabpress-hydraulic-cylinder-jack-10-ton-rosin-extractor-min_443d9fa4-49eb-48e4-a6ff-b0263ab5deba_1024x1024.jpg
 
The thought is that yields have a range where they aren't as affected as much by the pressure applied, then you get to a point where you apply more pressure and start getting more yields with less cannabinoids, so plant matter of some sort. I have a feeling my lower pressure rosin (less yields) was more potent than my really high pressure rosin (more yields). I still need to test this theory out as I'm only recently pressing around or below 1k PSI.

That makes sense to me, I'll defiantly follow your advice on the next squish.

Thanks @psychonaut
 
Hey folks, Roger has finished the gauge+adapter for 1/4" NPT. It's not yet available but we're working to make it available soon. It will be for 1/4" NPT pumps without gauges, to place inline between the hose and pump. It will be affordable, it's our promise.

Some pictures for your reference. The gauge+adapter will include

T-port manifold , 1/4" NPT (female, female, female)
Adapter, 1/4" NPT adapter (male, male)
10000 PSI gauge 1/4" NPT (male)

108a6td.jpg


t8t9gz.jpg


rt3qbq.jpg


28m0jlh.jpg
 
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Morning to all you crazy vaporists and Dabpress family!

We're happy to announce that the 1/4" NPT gauge + adapter is now available on our official webstore.

https://www.dabpress.com/products/d...pressure-gauge-0-10000-psi-a-pressure-adapter

Sale price is $29.99 + shipping (recommended to purchase on the same order as your hr10t35v unit if you want to avoid express shipping fees from China ($$$))

This gauge + adapter is designed to be used with 10-ton hydraulic pumps rated to 10000 PSI such as Porta Power, Strongway, Torin Big Red (UK/EU) as well as various other generic Porta Power compatible models. Please verify that your hydraulic hose and pump fittings are 1/4" NPT threading otherwise you will need to purchase additional reducers or bushings to fit the parts.

pressure-gauge-kit-add-strongway-pump-10-ton_1024x1024.jpg


dabpress-pressure-gauge-rosin-press-hydraulic-pump_1024x1024.jpg


Notice:
  • dp-gk35v pressure gauge kit is easy to install on the pump with 1/4" threading
  • Well paired with the 10-Ton hydraulic pump - Strongway pump & Porta Power Pump [ 64.45$ off Amazon.com ]
  • Teflon Tape must be applied to the threads during installation to prevent leaking.
Features:
  • Brass wetted parts for measuring non-corrosive liquid and gas pressure
  • Circular dial is filled with glycerin and enclosed in a stainless steel 304 case for corrosion resistance
  • 2 Pack Stainless Steel 1/4" NPT Male adapters are included for a universal pairing.
Packing List:
  • 1Pcs x 10000 PSI 1/4" NPT Pressure Gauge
  • 2Pcs x 1/4" NPT Male/Male Adapters
  • 1Pcs x 1/4" NPT Female/Female/Female Gauge Manifold

-----------------


Attachment of the gauge inline between the hose and pump is a fairly simple task as I've outined in my video a page or two back. The modification can be made by one person usually.

When purchasing a pump and hose without gauge, you will spend in the 50-70$ range, and adding this gauge adapter to your pump, the cost of the pump with gauge will be comparable to the Strongway 10-ton AIO pump with hose and gauge.

Thank you for your patience while we fill this void in the market ourselfs.

As to news with Dabpress, currently Roger is spending less time on socials and more time building. The Chinese Spring Festival begins on 2/5. In the meantime we are working hard to build more units and expand our offerings with useful accessories to improve the quality of your extractions and also workflow.

Our 2.5x4.5" 160u rosin filters are now available on the official webstore. This sized rosin filter bag pairs to our pm40r (40mm cylinder pre-press mold). You can also stuff the filters by hand and use as a rectangle puck if you prefer.

https://www.dabpress.com/products/2...er-package-paired-with-dp-pm40r-prepress-mold

Our Rectangle/Cylinder universal pre-press mold is also now available on the official webstore. This will create two different shaped pucks to pair with our rosin filter bags to press bottle tech style (vertical filter build) or square/rectangle puck laying flat across the plates. This pre-press mold is compatible with 2.5" (cylinder side) and 3" (square side) wide filters based on your preference.

https://www.dabpress.com/collection...iversal-rosin-puck-maker-universal-rosin-mold
 
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Kinda looks like :babeando: at the end, which is how I feel looking at this video

No kidding. I dont get yields like that with my own material. They are running some off the hook flower, it's called God's Tear. They told me it's bush larf that was pressed, so apparently the top colas are gonna be getting pressed sometime here in the future, I can't wait to see the yields on that!
 
Figured I'd pop in here and give the 7 day warning on the Santa Left a Dabpress contest, there are currently 12 contestants so the odds of winning are quite good indeed!

So after a couple of months of tooling back and fourth trying to find a solution for the world (literally) to pair up hand pump to the hr10t35v with a gauge, we finally got it, so the only real issue that folks are having is that we don't sell the unit as a whole ready to press out of the box.

I'd like to explain why. Most of these hydraulic pumps for consumers are manufacturered in China. Seems like an easy thing to get those over to the Shenzen factory and just rebrand them and ship them along with the press. Unfortunately it's not so easy, American companies get those products, so the only way to really get them back to the Dabpress factory in China is to import them back into China, then re-export them to their destination country after the sale. The cost of the product goes up dramatically between international shipping and duties and fees back and fourth. So, it didn't make sense as our business model is based around providing affordable, capable rosin presses, wiith a little DIY on the customers end, to help save on the cost.

It's possible we may get into the hydraulic pump business so we have a truely plug and play option out of the box, we'll see what the future holds!
 
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Happy Friday VA!

I am pleased to announce that our rosin temp control box has passed CE, RoHS and FCC certification!

Here's a look inside our Rosin Temp Control Box dp-tc02r115. This particular model is paired with the 3x5" plate kits and 3x5" AIO units.

whl40o.jpg


The temp control box itself is fairly simple and straight forward, the bottom side of the box is where the unit is serviced. 4 screws are removed 2 on the bottom front of the unit, and 2 on the bottom rear of the unit.

xasxlc.jpg


Service on many of the components are relatively simple and straight forward. The PID itself can be replaced without opening the chassis.

103dcw8.jpg


The wiring for the switches and plugs running to the back of the box. Spade connectors for easy service.

nwk5mr.jpg


The wiring for the PID controllers up front for heating rods, thermocouple. Ring terminals for easy service.

296dteh.jpg


Dual 25A Single Phase Solid State Relays for silent quick response.

33xg6fo.jpg


We don't recommend to open the Rosin Temp Control Box unless absolutely necessary to prevent unintentional damage. If the unit does need to be serviced, prior to opening the unit, make sure that the power has been unplugged and that all switches are in the off position!
 

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