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Accessories Dynavap And Other Induction Heaters

The new Dynavap IH has the mash to operate tactile switch and looks like a plastic box with a sticker for US$130...yikes.
www.dynavap.com

DynaTec Induction Heater - Apollo 2: International Plug (Type C)

The Apollo 2 wall-powered Induction Heater is designed and engineered by DynaTec, specifically for use with the DynaVap VapCap. Get yours today.
www.dynavap.com www.dynavap.com

1580621640942.png


Looks like a rebadged Apollo2 and might be DC powered by the look of the plug.
 
@LesPlenty axial have been the most common when I've been looking for them.
3-4 years ago and I was struggling to find any diametric ones in the UK.

Fluked it with these ones and continue to use them.

10mm dia x 5mm thick N42 Neodymium Magnet - 2.9kg Pull

10mm x 5mm North-South poles on opposite faces 2.9kg pull Excellent resistance to demagnetisation Triple coated These magnets are ideal for craft and model-making projects as well as engineering and manufacturing, the triple coating allows for corrosion resistance.
www.first4magnets.com

@Stevenski the 12mm axial I have doesn't work but this may be down to it only being 2mm thick. Stacked on a 5mm makes no difference and it still pulls to the edge of the 12.

Not sure where George is going with his 'special' magnets @Fat Freddy, so far I've only seen 2 types of polings.

Last March I heard that some DV magnets weren't centering so if you bought from them and have had the same problem let them know.
I can see how a batch of axials could slip in by mistake, after all they have to take the word of their supplier and testing magnets would be a full time job.

10x5mm axial magnet in case lid. 12x2mm axial sits nicely and centres. Then another 10x5mm sits properly on the 12mm. Offer up the smaller diametric and it shifts.

As you can see the small diametric and the 10x5mm both sit central on the cap. 12mm just pulls to the side.

Be careful with them as they move fast and chip or shatter.
IMG_20200202_133506.jpg
 
phattpiggie said:
10x5mm axial magnet in case lid. 12x2mm axial sits nicely and centres. Then another 10x5mm sits properly on the 12mm. Offer up the smaller diametric and it shifts.
Click to expand...

Hmmmm? So axial is the problem, or is the diametric the issue? I have ordered both types from a supplier and had the same issue of "shifting" with both! Here's my communication with the supplier:

(start at bottom of page and read/scroll up from there)

*********************************

"Hello,

I have not seen this phenomenon as you call it. I do know that when separating the axially magnetized disc that they are hardest to part at the very edge.

Respectfully,
Faye
service@apexmagnets.com
Monday, May 7, 2018 12:54 PM

**********************************
Hi Fey,

Sorry for the confusion.

Question: have you observed the "phenomenon" I've attempted to describe in previous communications regarding the magnet pushing the attracted metal out to the perimeter of the magnet rather than dead center on the flat side of the disc?

You see, at this point I'm not sure if we're on the same page or not; just trying to clarify. :)

Thanks!
*******************************
From: "Service" <service@apexmagnets.com>
Sent: Monday, May 7, 2018 8:45:07 AM
Subject: Reply*** : Contact Form
Click to expand...

Hello,

Thank you for contacting us.

I see 2 orders for you. One was through Ebay and one through our website. Both magnets are the 1/2 x 1/8" disc with adhesive backing. They are axially magnetized which means through the thickness. I had sent a link for our regular 1/2 x 1/8 axial disc but the magnet itself would be the same.

Magnetic fields make a ray from the center outward. This is not something we can control.

It was my understanding that this was the type of magnet that you wanted. The opposite is diametrically magnetized which means the thin edges are where the North and South poles are located.

Respectfully,
Faye
service@apexmagnets.com
Click to expand...
***********************************

Don't get me wrong as I have the utmost respect for George, I think he's a real stand-up guy, but do you think I should have asked Axial Magnets to send me some of "George's Specials"?! LOL!

I be all confused.....again!

.
 
I might have made a blue with the terminology I used but the ones that work I got from DV & the ones that are side magnetised are all from fasttech now stuck to my fridge.

My problem is I tend to order on a Sunday afternoon when I am well fucked. I swear I have ordered both kinds out of the four or five orders I have placed for magnets & none worked the way the OG ones DV have do. Maybe they are indeed "George specials". If they were 1mm thicker they would be near perfect.
 
IMG-20200222-112329.jpg

First try out and it's worked.
Never wanted a bloody battery to run out like I've wanted this one too.

If it continues to work then we are on for swapping out batteries anywhere. All you need is a fresh battery, screwdriver and this lead.

What's the phrase 'chameganger'
:rofl:


Drained the battery on my IH, of course now the BMS needs a jump start and we'd usually do this with the charger.
Turns out there is enough power iin a dead battery to jump the BMS.
I put the fresh one in the IH, used this lead to plug in the old one for a second and it's alive.
 
Looks like it would charge a Mighty too if it is 12v ish!
 
For you tinkerers thinking of making a pocket IH the board kit is now available in an even smaller package,
1583808279793.png


www.ebay.com

5v-12v ZVS induction heating Tesla coil driver board Jacob's ladder Power Supply | eBay

ZVS Tesla simple inverter drive Jacobs Ladder 5-12v. 1 PC Assembled ZVS Tesla simple makes drive Jacobs Ladder 5-12 v. When the induction heating, the general order to work five minutes to cool off. Because the induction heating current is relatively large, the heating coil is relatively large.
www.ebay.com
 
LesPlenty said:
For you tinkerers thinking of making a pocket IH the board kit is now available in an even smaller package,
View attachment 16976

www.ebay.com

5v-12v ZVS induction heating Tesla coil driver board Jacob's ladder Power Supply | eBay

ZVS Tesla simple inverter drive Jacobs Ladder 5-12v. 1 PC Assembled ZVS Tesla simple makes drive Jacobs Ladder 5-12 v. When the induction heating, the general order to work five minutes to cool off. Because the induction heating current is relatively large, the heating coil is relatively large.
www.ebay.com
Click to expand...
@Madri-Guy has been alerted.
 
I am in need of some advice here please. With a flame on the cap of my M 2020, I had two clicks and vapour, mostly on the second cycle. With the SJK I get one click, rarely two, and no visible vapour. Should I leave the VapCap beyond the clicks and, if so, how long? I get medicated but I don't get really flavourfull draws nor any visible vapour. Thanks for your :twocents:...
 
FabulatorPoeta said:
With the SJK I get one click, rarely two, and no visible vapour. Should I leave the VapCap beyond the clicks
Click to expand...
Induction heaters can be quite variable. I don't have an SJK, rather my IH is a Pipes Skelator. For dry herb I count to 4 after the click; one 1 hundred, two 1 hundred, three 1 hundred, 4. For concentrates and hash I extend the count a bit further.

Play with your IH to reach the level of roasting and vapor you prefer. I think you may be under heating your cap a bit.
 
Squiby said:
Induction heaters can be quite variable. I don't have an SJK, rather my IH is a Pipes Skelator. For dry herb I count to 4 after the click; one 1 hundred, two 1 hundred, three 1 hundred, 4. For concentrates and hash I extend the count a bit further.

Play with your IH to reach the level of roasting and vapor you prefer. I think you may be under heating your cap a bit.
Click to expand...

Thank you @Squiby! I’ll do just that and let you know how it goes in a few days. Much obliged. :peace:
 
The SJK have a far larger bore diameter & therefore a larger coil size so it will take longer to heat. Try going a few seconds over the first click & you will end up getting a feel for how to best use the heater.
 
Stevenski said:
The SJK have a far larger bore diameter & therefore a larger coil size so it will take longer to heat. Try going a few seconds over the first click & you will end up getting a feel for how to best use the heater.
Click to expand...
Thank you @Stevenski . Further experiments are definitely needed :smile: I’ll keep you all posted on the results. Have a great summertime weekend.:peace:
 
I found the sjk would heat caps quicker
Would click quickly and maybe only once sometimes by memory
The coil is different to other ih devices when you open it up
It's very thin wire wrapped around lots of times - also has the proximity sensor to kick it on and off
This can be adjusted inside by memory with a screwdriver
I no longer have one to show pictures of such
But the design seems to be a bit different to other devices and hole size not a factor for heating
I haven't used one for ages now

Now its portside mini or my home-made ih

The sjk definitely worked well and quickly for me
Possibly the clicks are not as accurate with the fast heating and the cap needs a few extra seconds

Stick anything in there it heats up super fast, try a finger if you dare - warning it burns and I don't recommend...lol
I guess dentists need instruments heated quickly when moulding

@LesPlenty still has an sjk he has put through its paces and may have some useful input
 
I only use my SJK for a quick dip of the rosin collecting tools to make them easy to wipe the last bit into a puck when collecting rosin, I prefer my home made IH when I use a cap on a Tip (usually a WS log or 2)
Just make sure you hit the second click when heating as some tips can be REALLY slow (others fast) to hit the second click. Check this next time you have a bowl by listening to the cooldown, you should hear 2 separate clicks quite easily on cool down.
 
felvapes said:
The sjk definitely worked well and quickly for me
Possibly the clicks are not as accurate with the fast heating and the cap needs a few extra seconds...
Click to expand...

It seems like it indeed according to the feedbacks I am getting. Thanks @felvapes

LesPlenty said:
Just make sure you hit the second click when heating as some tips can be REALLY slow (others fast) to hit the second click. Check this next time you have a bowl by listening to the cooldown, you should hear 2 separate clicks quite easily on cool down.
Click to expand...

I'll be attentive for sure. Thanks again @LesPlenty .
 
Well sooner than I thought possible, a preliminary report. The herb was definitely under heated.

Now I went for the second click (starting with a cold M20 & captive cap) to find out in amazement that the second click has vanished never to come back... since I use the IH :hmm: So I combusted :cry:...

Yet, a few extra seconds are indeed needed and, to get them, almost 2 complete cycles of the SJK timer are needed.

@Squiby's countdown "For dry herb I count to 4 after the click; one 1 hundred, two 1 hundred, three 1 hundred, 4." brought me there, but then almost too much... So maybe just two 1 hundred will be enough. It's then becoming more a matter of taste.

I also noticed during the first heating period some vapour leaking from the M20

With the flame of a paraffine lamp that I have used up until now roasting the herb was much more progressive : the IH seems to bring it about all at once, and I don't seem to be able to catch the flavour of the strain...:shakehead:

I need to state that I micro-dose (or mini-dose say others - under 0.02gr), that the CCD is set at the smallest position and that I have a degummed hemp filter over the CCD, the weed on top of course.

610011cf740a0121362f19935774e60f.jpg


Thank you all for your feedbacks and shared experiential wisdom :nod:... To be continued
 
Last edited:
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