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Accessories Dynavap And Other Induction Heaters

Well it appears that the depth of insertion makes the difference; and now the second click is audible one time out of four. I'm starting to get the hang of it I think.

CHEMICAL-ALICE-Curiouser-And-Curiouser.jpeg


Practice makes parfect as the saying goes. :smile:
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Well it appears that the depth of insertion makes the difference; and now the second click is audible one time out of four. I'm starting to get the hang of it I think.

CHEMICAL-ALICE-Curiouser-And-Curiouser.jpeg


Practice makes parfect as the saying goes. :smile:
clear-495a83e08fc8e5d7569efe6339a1228ee08292fa1f2bee8e0be6532990cb3852.gif
Ah yes I forgot to mention this
That's where the proximity sensor can be adjusted if necessary, but placing deeper in the hole helps yes
Glad you have had some progress
I found the sjk a brilliant device for the price

Now my $10 homemade is my favourite for flavour
The PSM also works but was expensive



I'm in the habit of mentally counting to five when I start heating my caps. It began when I was using a torch in a loud environment and couldn't hear the clicks. Now I just find myself doing it all the time, torch or IH. Lots of times I feel my clicks more than I hear them, too.
I also often feel my clicks as much as hear them
 
MOTHERPUFFERS...haha, I like it...then I saw the price...$200 OUCH, just have to remember small always costs more...in electronic speak!
And as no one else bothered,:whipit:
 
MOTHERPUFFERS...haha, I like it...then I saw the price...$200 OUCH, just have to remember small always costs more...in electronic speak!
And as no one else bothered,:whipit:
Just ordered one for an upcoming giveaway.......:razz2:
 
Hello everyone (a bit of a catch all greeting I'm afraid. I'm new here, you see.) I need some advice, I want to build an induction heater. These are the components I have, no mosfets or momentary buttons, what I want to know is can I still go ahead and build it? Or do I need to the mosfet and the momentary switch?
IMG_20201107_141123.jpg
 
Hello everyone (a bit of a catch all greeting I'm afraid. I'm new here, you see.) I need some advice, I want to build an induction heater. These are the components I have, no mosfets or momentary buttons, what I want to know is can I still go ahead and build it? Or do I need to the mosfet and the momentary switch? View attachment 22110
What wattage did you get?
 
Hello everyone (a bit of a catch all greeting I'm afraid. I'm new here, you see.) I need some advice, I want to build an induction heater. These are the components I have, no mosfets or momentary buttons, what I want to know is can I still go ahead and build it? Or do I need to the mosfet and the momentary switch? View attachment 22110


I built one with similar equipment. You just have to remember to turn it off between sessions or it is a real fire hazard.
 
View attachment 22113
The middle one is my Stealth Induction Cup. (with Piecemaker Kommuter Kup waterpiece, and Ooze car cup for ABV). He did a great job, this thing is amazing.
I am too stoned. A day of celebration. Madri-Guy's birthday.
Love this ih

Happy bday @Madri-Guy

Hello everyone (a bit of a catch all greeting I'm afraid. I'm new here, you see.) I need some advice, I want to build an induction heater. These are the components I have, no mosfets or momentary buttons, what I want to know is can I still go ahead and build it? Or do I need to the mosfet and the momentary switch? View attachment 22110
It will work fine but as stated above if you don't have a pressure switch or the likes you have to remember to turn it off between clicks ideally

Get a switch if possible
MOSFET not necessary

*Sorry for back to backs @momofthegoons

Mom note: posts merged :smile:
 
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Hello everyone (a bit of a catch all greeting I'm afraid. I'm new here, you see.) I need some advice, I want to build an induction heater. These are the components I have, no mosfets or momentary buttons, what I want to know is can I still go ahead and build it? Or do I need to the mosfet and the momentary switch? View attachment 22110
You will need at least a 5amp power supply if you want to run it from AC(house power) I recommend running these cheapo units from a battery source for much fewer problems...but it should work with a big enough wall wart. Just check the 12v wall wart with a multimeter first as some I have checked can be as high as 18v and the unit shown has a max rating of 12v (even a car battery can be 13v when not being charged and up to 14.4v if the engine is running!)
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Post#26 on,
 

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