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Vape SHOW US YOUR BALLS - Ball vapes - user experience and comparisons

Thermal conductivity is less than ruby, I was unable to find any data on specific heat capacity for undoped Cubic Zirconia. I'd expect it is also less than ruby.

Probably a lateral move from ruby at best, likely a half step back but hey if you like shiney.
I'll pass, ymmv.
I have known of cz use for ages and not bothered as I wasn't sure it would be an upgrade for me

The zirconia on the other hand has me interested to possibly try just for the fuck of it
 
These would look good in your lab glass baller @felvapes, so many sizes to choose from and they work out pretty cheap too!
Hda47c94cdaac447c8f8684a55817da5cP.jpg

The material sounds well suited to our application...Google on cubic zirconia,

Particularly in the chemical industry it is used as window material for the monitoring of corrosive liquids due to its chemical stability and mechanical toughness.
Mechanical properties of partially stabilized zirconia (high hardness and shock resistance, low friction coefficient, high chemical and thermal resistance as well as high wear and tear resistance)


Forgive my ignorance
Can CZ be thermal resistant but also have thermal retention?
Is this more torch related than e-nail?
 
Short answer is yes for any material.

I guess it depends on what you mean by thermal retention. There is s no scientific definition that I am aware of. I think is could mean one of two things in everyday conversation. 1) The ability to absorb a lot of energy (heat) or 2) the ability to hold energy (heat) for a long time.

There is a relationship with thermal resistance/thermal conductivity and point 2 above.
A material that has high thermal resistance and there for low thermal conductivity is a good insulator. It absorbs and releases heat slowly.

There is no such relationship to point 1 above. This is specific heat capacity. How much energy (heat) can the material hold.
 
Short answer is yes for any material.

I guess it depends on what you mean by thermal retention. There is s no scientific definition that I am aware of. I think is could mean one of two things in everyday conversation. 1) The ability to absorb a lot of energy (heat) or 2) the ability to hold energy (heat) for a long time.

There is a relationship with thermal resistance/thermal conductivity and point 2 above.
A material that has high thermal resistance and there for low thermal conductivity is a good insulator. It absorbs and releases heat slowly.

There is no such relationship to point 1 above. This is specific heat capacity. How much energy (heat) can the material hold.

Thanks for the clarification
Not sure thermal retention was a term
Reading posts gets confusing as there are a mix of pros and amateurs contributing and the terminology can change up
My tendency is to parrot terms I've read that may not be applicable to the subject matter
The dangers of posting stoned, trying to convey thought while searching for words
 
Got my Tiodw Mini a couple weeks ago and have been playing around with it. I mostly dab so it's taken me a while to post about it. I'm still figuring out which rig works best . And whether or not I like using it through water or not. I'm sort of leaning towards not.... at least in my large Goo Roo rig. I'm going to pull out some of my other large rigs and see if I get the same results.

I realize that this can be material specific (as in how dry or sticky the weed is), but what temp are you finding you use most with it?
 
what temp are you finding you use most with it?
I only have the V3 Tiodw and find the temp depends on the bowl or more specifically how far the top of the load is from the baller. With a bowl height almost touching the baller in the glass (and appropriately sized balls) I can get as low as 555f but am currently at 630f with the B2cvape Ti 18mm bowl at its highest setting. I think I have heard peeps using the Mini as high as 670f but I would start at 575f and go from there. One of the benefits of the baller is being able to dial it in for different RH meds if needed. I also like full buds (larfy ones) and just stir them as they vape with successive puffs (not so much now as I am enjoying the OM grinder a little too much)
 
Got my Tiodw Mini a couple weeks ago and have been playing around with it. I mostly dab so it's taken me a while to post about it. I'm still figuring out which rig works best . And whether or not I like using it through water or not. I'm sort of leaning towards not.... at least in my large Goo Roo rig. I'm going to pull out some of my other large rigs and see if I get the same results.

I realize that this can be material specific (as in how dry or sticky the weed is), but what temp are you finding you use most with it?
I only have the V3 Tiodw and find the temp depends on the bowl or more specifically how far the top of the load is from the baller. With a bowl height almost touching the baller in the glass (and appropriately sized balls) I can get as low as 555f but am currently at 630f with the B2cvape Ti 18mm bowl at its highest setting. I think I have heard peeps using the Mini as high as 670f but I would start at 575f and go from there. One of the benefits of the baller is being able to dial it in for different RH meds if needed. I also like full buds (larfy ones) and just stir them as they vape with successive puffs (not so much now as I am enjoying the OM grinder a little too much)


Is there an English translation?
 
Got my Tiodw Mini a couple weeks ago and have been playing around with it. I mostly dab so it's taken me a while to post about it. I'm still figuring out which rig works best . And whether or not I like using it through water or not. I'm sort of leaning towards not.... at least in my large Goo Roo rig. I'm going to pull out some of my other large rigs and see if I get the same results.

I realize that this can be material specific (as in how dry or sticky the weed is), but what temp are you finding you use most with it?
To set the mini up to work optimally I have done a few things
The coil should be stretched and then tightened so the ID is small enough that it is form fit tightly to the centre post
The head should stay on the coil without a lid even if shaken
I also removed the stock lower screen and swapped for a 16mm mesh screen, you can an extra 10 ruby in there for a total of 150
The mesh screen also gives better performance

I like to raise the screen in the bowl (I have 17mm screens that friction fit)
I use a male 18mm joint to balance the screen and then gently push into place to friction fit the sides of the bowl
I find with all my ballers (except the XL) this gives better vapour quality and performance keeping the temps lower
IMG20230309023700.jpg


With the mini set up like this and the screen in the bowl raised I run it on 595 and get full extraction
I run the Tiodw v3 on 620/630 to get similar results
I run the same temps for all my weed strains
I find I can use all my bubblers with these ballers and they work out pretty good, fun to switch it up to even use recyclers and smaller pieces too

I have to make a video for the mini soon
It beats my Taroma lite
 
What determines the kind of head you use?
I chose the diffuser because I ignited material with the ditanium which has a nozzle that kind of acts like an injector
Over filled the wands and instant regret
Depends on the which baller I'm using that determines the style I use
The mini is the most even and complete extracting injector I have
My diy glass female diffuser style would be closest to your ch ones
I am able to combust with that, sometimes more easily as the material is so close to the heater
But it also can be more even in extraction as the walls get air right to the edges

The mini only has a tiny thin part on the outer edge from the glass
My female glass uses a basket screen which also would add to the walls getting extraction

I think the diffuser style may get those edges in some bowls better
But I also get pretty damn close with my mini now
So it comes down to dialling them in properly and personal techniques which will work best I suppose
Or which vape I pcik up on the day to use
I swap and play - but the most often used and grabbed for head is the Tiodw mini at this point in time

I'm playing with various diy ideas atm for the fug of it
Adult Lego/mecano making ballers
 
Running the Mini on the JCVAP touch screen PID that just arrived
Using one of the adaptor cords to go from it's Chinese pinout to my Auber pinout coils
Both the PID and adaptor are working very well
The PID seems slightly more "aggressive" maybe keeps the temp better during use
The running actual temp on the screen seems to go up and down a little bit in standby, but in use it seems very consistent
The Auber goes up and down a bit in stand by too, I think it's just more noticeable with a big screen and large digits displaying it to you with this one
The Auber seems to jump around about 5/10° +/-
The jcvap does it at 15 +/-
Touch screen works well
Heats up quickly but steadily
Has a timer to tell you how long it's been on
Easy to switch from F to C with one button (I still use F)

I think it self calibrates when you turn it on
When you unplug it the temperature resets to 710 as a default
So far it's a nice little PID that seems to hold temp well with a baller
More playing to go to give better feedback

Biggest thing I am happy about is the adaptor cords
They work and make all those connection issues that never really needed to be an issue go away - my coil cord is a bit longer now too for more reach
With these adaptors you never have to worry about the coil you buy in the future (apart from area specific voltage)

Type one for Chinese to American
Type two for American to Chinese

IMG20230310195052.jpg

 
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Running the Mini on the JCVAP touch screen PID that just arrived
Using one of the adaptor cords to go from it's Chinese pinout to my Auber pinout coils
Both the PID and adaptor are working very well
The PID seems slightly more "aggressive" maybe keeps the temp better during use
The running actual temp on the screen seems to go up and down a little bit in standby, but in use it seems very consistent
The Auber goes up and down a bit in stand by too, I think it's just more noticeable with a big screen and large digits displaying it to you with this one
The Auber seems to jump around about 5/10° +/-
The jcvap does it at 15 +/-
Touch screen works well
Heats up quickly but steadily
Has a timer to tell you how long it's been on
Easy to switch from F to C with one button (I still use F)

I think it self calibrates when you turn it on
When you unplug it the temperature resets to 710 as a default
So far it's a nice little PID that seems to hold temp well with a baller
More playing to go to give better feedback

Biggest thing I am happy about is the adaptor cords
They work and make all those connection issues that never really needed to be an issue go away - my coil cord is a bit longer now too for more reach
With these adaptors you never have to worry about the coil you buy in the future (apart from area specific voltage)

Type one for Chinese to American
Type two for American to Chinese

View attachment 44771


That's A nice PID
Some thought went into the design
Like the top display

Just toasted a chamber of material writing this
Forgot the ball head was on the chamber
It toasts the flower to a crisp
You lose the flower and then have to clean the chamber unless you want burnt taste for subsequent vapes
I do this all the time
Good time to point out why you don't over fill the chamber
 
Is there really only two pinout configurations. That is astonishing, I believe it leaves 118 more possibilities unused. Common on manufacturers don't be slackin' like that.

Then throw a sixth wire in the mix for even more fun and games.
:smoke:
High five also tried to do the apple connection thing and have a unique ground position and they sell their own adaptor cord to go to an Auber only

I think companies doing this suck dogs balls
Qshop tried and bullyied people around the coils and pids
They would have got a coil sale out of me if they had provided the adaptor cords to go with

Now jcvap has done it for everyone with any PID (except high five who can live in their own corner)

Universal and open source is why ballers are changing the vape scene so quickly
We've progressed more in 18 months than we have in 18 years and it's because companies (not for lack of trying) can't hide and corner the tech
You can diy something better than some of the expensive heads
Prices are dropping and performance and new releases are jumping

Win for everyone
 
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I noticed RVS have the Taroma lite plus in stock, last night
so now I'm looking forward to seeing what twice the number of balls does to the vapour signature lol
and not looking forward to deciding which coil to stretch
and wondering if they've missed a trick by not selling a longer custom coil like iDB Cloud Connoisseur is planning or Dan ModPod did for the DeskPod
I guess that's gotta be the next, if they're all gonna be making taller heads in the future
 

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