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Glass Where Do You Buy Your Glass

momofthegoons said:
Oh shit! It's been so long that I forgot about that... I'm so sorry.
They don't bake on those logos so the paint will come off with a strong cleaning solution.

But yeah... it's a very easy way to clean your rigs.

btw... when you tag a person in an edit it doesn't work... only in an original draft. This would have been a time for one of your back to back posts for me to merge. :tongue:


What he said! :nod:
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@momofthegoons i use the CASCADE pellet's for my water pipes.
SIMPLE GREEN every 3rd cleaning and LlME or LEMON rise.
If a WP is super dirty I use OXY CLEAN AND VINEGAR
MY FRIEND THAT USED BONG'S GROSSED ME OUT ON HOW DIRTY THEY WERE.
He was into Bob MARLEY while PAGE (JIMMY) was my hero at the time.
JOINT'S WERE MORE CIVILIZED IN MY CASE.
VAPORIZER'S TASTE BETTER 2 ME.
H2O & VAPORIZING IS DEFINITELY CIVILZED 4 ME.? .
 
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ClearBlueLou said:
The internal of *this* pipe is significantly different than the pipe shown with the problem.

The problem pipe shows that the vapor exit is on the same side as the mouthpiece, and positioned a good 1/4” ABOVE the mouthpiece. I can’t see how that ends up with Les getting water when he pulls, but it’s clearly not the same as what he ordered, especially since the function is problematic.

On your pipe, Baron, the vapor exit is on the opposite side of the down tube from the mouthpiece, so same problem wouldn’t/couldn’t occur, I’d think.
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Indeed. Mine is the colab between Bates (who rather invented the diffusion pump rigs) and Gravlabs. I have seen both a Bates OG and Gravlabs and can't find a dime's worth of difference between them.

I have never used nor seen Popular Glass rattle can so can't really comment except that I had trouble see the issue in the pics. Not criticism by any means, but I should think a simple pic of the rig in profile would highlight the issue (not that I can do a damn thing about it for him!).
 
@Baron23 the photo had to be cropped to fit on DHGate, below is a bigger picture, the bottom arrow is where the stem is meant to finish and is the suggested water level. The top arrow is where I have to have water to function correctly and that raises the level into the mouthpiece;
IMG_20181005_194223_LI.jpg
 
momofthegoons said:
Oh shit! It's been so long that I forgot about that... I'm so sorry.
They don't bake on those logos so the paint will come off with a strong cleaning solution.

But yeah... it's a very easy way to clean your rigs.

btw... when you tag a person in an edit it doesn't work... only in an original draft. This would have been a time for one of your back to back posts for me to merge. :tongue:


What he said! :nod:
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All good
I wasn't annoyed about the label coming off, I'm not about to resell it and rip someone off pretending it is legit...lol

The method is great for keeping glass clean and very easy maintenance...very shiny results

Lol - see my back to backs have a purpose...hahaa

@Baron23

I find it to be clear in the pic

The inner stem on one is lower and the one with issues is higher and gives splashback

I can see the difference in the pic myself

arb said:
The smell and taste of combustion has become abhorrent to me............most uncivilized.
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I agree totally since full conversion
 
Jane at Popular Glass could not work it out, Baron is not the only one! I posted 6 different pictures with arrows and writing on them and she still wanted the old one back so they could work out the problem. After 10-15 messages, I said "you have worn me down, just give me a partial credit and be finished with it"
 
LesPlenty said:
Jane at Popular Glass could not work it out, Baron is not the only one! I posted 6 different pictures with arrows and writing on them and she still wanted the old one back so they could work out the problem. After 10-15 messages, I said "you have worn me down, just give me a partial credit and be finished with it"
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Wow
Fair enough
I can see what you are saying straight away

It was the one thing I wondered about the rattle can design....But I can see the difference in yours from the picture

I ordered from Steven so see how his goes
 
Mine is OK to use as long as I keep it tilted forward while using it, It really preserves the flavour, more than I expected. I think it may have medicated me more than usual too! I like how it sounds too, like an old inboard speed boat spluttering. I bet you will love it.:thumbsup:
(mine cost US$22.50 in the end, I might get another one later on, as soon as someone knocks it off!)
 
LesPlenty said:
@Baron23 the photo had to be cropped to fit on DHGate, below is a bigger picture, the bottom arrow is where the stem is meant to finish and is the suggested water level. The top arrow is where I have to have water to function correctly and that raises the level into the mouthpiece;
View attachment 5220
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Thanks!! That helps oodles. Yeah, maybe its a little high but not by much, I think

If you really like rattle can, and yes, its more money, this from the originator...the OG internal diffusion pump:

https://dankgeek.com/products/grav-labs-bates-worm-diffusion-pump-bubbler-dab-rig

And here are pics of mine...of course it has a male joint as it was intended as a direct inject dab rig, but a cheap adapter can make it fit any thing. Let's see if these pics highlight the water line level and the internal outlet height.

In this one, you can see the water fill line....this shot is taken at an angle so you can't readily see how it lines up in height with the MP or angle cut internal outlet, but there is a line and its pretty high up
Attachment-2.jpeg


In this shot, its hard to see the line (well, you can see the reclaim line but the etched one is difficult) but hopefully you can see that we are to fill to the bottom of the angled cut on the internal outlet and that yes, its right up there with the MP.

Attachment-1.jpeg


Not sure if this is helpful to you at all. IMO, DHGate does ok (and getting better) with rigs but the more complex they are...or more 'sophisticated' in their design, the less accurate or precise the knockoffs.

Cheers
 
LesPlenty said:
@Baron23 the photo had to be cropped to fit on DHGate, below is a bigger picture, the bottom arrow is where the stem is meant to finish and is the suggested water level. The top arrow is where I have to have water to function correctly and that raises the level into the mouthpiece;
View attachment 5220
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Why is the fitting 4 the mouthpiece a fenale?
Why not a male facing down so you can use a SHERLOCK? (Jhook)
 
ataxian said:
Why is the fitting 4 the mouthpiece a fenale?
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The 18mm joint on the right is for your vape, the flat tuba mouthpiece is on the left.
saml-glass-21cm-tall-glass-bongs-glass-smoking-pipes-diffusion-pump-with-ball-joint-size-18.8mm-pg5030(fc-rattle-can).jpg


You can see how much lower the listing photo of the end of the 45-degree cut, I believe whoever made my bong marked the line to cut but instead of finishing the 45 cut at that mark, started the 45 cut at that level by mistake.
 
LesPlenty said:
The 18mm joint on the right is for your vape, the flat tuba mouthpiece is on the left.
saml-glass-21cm-tall-glass-bongs-glass-smoking-pipes-diffusion-pump-with-ball-joint-size-18.8mm-pg5030(fc-rattle-can).jpg


You can see how much lower the listing photo of the end of the 45-degree cut, I believe whoever made my bong marked the line to cut but instead of finishing the 45 cut at that mark, started the 45 cut at that level by mistake.
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Not the bowl.
The mouthpiece.
Why ship?
Reduce package size?
Lower cost!
 
That is the mouthpiece, not a fitting.....someone may need to translate for us...Merci Beaucoup.:thumbsup:
 
Oh yes, it would make a good ash catcher as it is quite small, robust and free flowing!
 
ataxian said:
Baron know's more than most on this planet!
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Nice of you to say, but most folks correctly view me as a dangerous lunatic! hahaha
 
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