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Grow Making do with what I have pt 1

Thanks @arb, of course I'm still learning, I don't have enough pride in my green thumb with cannabis to take offense, thanks for your input. I'll be making a lot of changes on the next grow, but specifically I am gonna try your medium and nutrients in a sample so I can see where things are. I am also seriously considering spending the money to send my well sample to Denver to get a complete analysis. I feel in the dark not knowing whats in my water, Cal or Mag levels is my gut feeling on the culprit.
 
Thanks @arb, of course I'm still learning, I don't have enough pride in my green thumb with cannabis to take offense, thanks for your input. I'll be making a lot of changes on the next grow, but specifically I am gonna try your medium and nutrients in a sample so I can see where things are. I am also seriously considering spending the money to send my well sample to Denver to get a complete analysis. I feel in the dark not knowing whats in my water, Cal or Mag levels is my gut feeling on the culprit.
Thanks for not being mad and your water is not the issue........I think you will work it out which is half the fun!
 
I'm just catching up with this thread, so forgive me if I missed something, but on molasses.

As noted it feeds microbes, but it also lowers the pH. If your soil has good buffering (calcium) there should be no problem. It lowers soil pH, but its temporary. As the buffering reacts with it, the soil pH gradually rises. And the pH swing will make some nutrients previously unavailable to become available. All good, if you have enough calcium.

On calcium, lime breaks down slowly. I like a variety, to vary break down times, so I use oyster shell flower, crab shells, and most all of my plant based nutrients have calcium in them, so I haven't used lime in years. Mostly because of magnesium that's in lime.

Magnesium has screwed up more gardens than mites, if that's possible, lol. Organic soil doesnt need mag additions. Plants only use trace amounts. And it's in about everything. I've never ever bought Cal/mag.

So why is my soil deficient? The biggest hurdle, is making nutrients available in organic soil.

The difference between organic soil and chem soil, is that in organic soil microbes have to make nutrients available. So the key is to have good compost, your microbe source. Worm castings are the best.

Another important input is enzymes. Science is still out on if it's a microbe or not, but it does help make nutrients available for plant uptake.

I use 6 row malted barley for enzymes. You find it in brew stores. It also has enough nutrients for each seed to grow a barley plant for 3 weeks. It's my numero uno input.

I put 1/4 cup in a blender and mix it with 5 gallons of water.

That's everything I know, lol.
 
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I just wanna get away from these rust burns, it's been a plague on my garden for years and the only thing I havent changed is the water, but I'm going with @arb and not suspecting it. I am going to try again with organic soil and then another with sunshine mix #5 and jacks professional fertilizer. The problem seems to pop up around bloom time. Anyway, it looks like I'll have some good buds none the less, just wish I could get it more dialed in, the harvest would be much better yield and quality.

Another reason to get excited about the next grow, I have a lot of new seeds coming, great genetics. NL is the only one I'm not excited for because it's a fast cultivar, but I wanna use it for possible breeding in the future.
 
I just wanna get away from these rust burns, it's been a plague on my garden for years and the only thing I havent changed is the water, but I'm going with @arb and not suspecting it. I am going to try again with organic soil and then another with sunshine mix #5 and jacks professional fertilizer. The problem seems to pop up around bloom time. Anyway, it looks like I'll have some good buds none the less, just wish I could get it more dialed in, the harvest would be much better yield and quality.

Another reason to get excited about the next grow, I have a lot of new seeds coming, great genetics. NL is the only one I'm not excited for because it's a fast cultivar, but I wanna use it for possible breeding in the future.

I've never had "rust" not sure what it is, but I do know that at bloom time plants are changing from an abundance of growing and rooting hormones to flowering hormones. If you remember from your teen years or have your dw get a certain age, hormones changing is stressful. Again idk what's causing your problem, but having a plant in great health at the start of flowering is important. Any weakness at that time is compounded.
 
I thought they were doing good in veg. I had some humidity issues when they were little but they made it through that with only 1 plant really suffering a stunt. For now I'm going to drop the molasses get the EC back down to where they like it, around 1,3, raise PH to 6.2 and see how they respond. I appreciate everyone's feedback! These meds gotta last me through the rest of the year.
 
I fed the plants again this morning, this time I added in my nutes, then added in the PH down after, turns out 6ml of each Part A & B and 4ml of PH down resulted in 6.1 PH and 1,3 EC. So I am thinking my lack of measuring the PH at a certain point (maybe when molasses was introduced) I ended up feeding the plants well under their PH. Good catch @Shredder So that may solve a piece of the puzzle there. I am gonna raise the PH to 6.2 on the next feeding. No more molasses for now, it's time to watch the numbers every feeding to make sure things are on the up and up. Lesson learned, don't get lazy with measuring.
 
I have never owned a meter nor checked my ph..............the issue is what you are putting in your water.
Can you name the ingredients of all the stuff you are mixing and why?
Rhetorical question...........then there is the whole plants do not have a"stable" ph they have a range.
They cycle through said range multiple times daily so stabilizing ph is..........not what you should be shooting for.
You are spending money to hurt your end results.
 
I have no idea what's in my chemical fertilizers, I checked their website and didnt see an ingredient list. I just expect that their "scientists" have the right formulation. Now if we're talking about building an organic soil, I know what the individual components are since they're not chemicals but components and what they bring. Soooo, I'm not trying to sound smart here. Point taken.

I do understand they have a range, the chart that was posted above shows the range. I also understand that as the nutrients are taken up, eventually the PH will rise from it's point. One problem, by adding molasses to water that was probably at PH 5.5 dropping it likely to 5.0 which explains any lockouts, not within their individual range for uptake.

Your last point, I agree. I'm getting there :)
 
I am not smart so if I come across as trying to sound that way..........it is a accident.
:biggrin:
Smartass...............absolutely I actually put some mild effort into that endeavor.
You are growing decent plants that look far better than most I just see you on the cusp of getting it and I want to nudge you over.
The truth is so simple that it's very simplicity masks it as we tend to over think as a species......or not think at all.......lolz.
 
I consider you smarter than me in this endeavor, so trust me when I say I am open ears and fairly open mind ;) Now smartasses, yes we all can be, some more than others, it's a good human quality IMO =)

Frankly the bottled nutrients are the biggest problem in growing, chemical fertilizers in general. I know you use them, and I do too, and some have better results than others. But this specifically is why some of us have problems.

This is taken from advanced nutrients site -

Advanced Nutrients manufactures 100% of our products, including our beneficial bacteria and fungi. In fact, we’re the only company with these capabilities.

And that’s not the only thing that makes Advanced Nutrients a superior company. We have a whole host of quality standards that set us apart from the competition…

Reverse Osmosis Water Treatment – Advanced Nutrients uses a reverse osmosis water treatment system designed and implemented by the leading German company specializing in these sophisticated water treatment systems. Our R/O water is laboratory grade (identical to the ones used at Red Bull® and Coca-Cola®), as well as 99.999999% free of all bacteria due to the post purification treatment that is part of our reverse osmosis process.

So it's designed for a blank canvas, anything other than that, and your results may vary. All that being said, I'm not mad at them, it's my own lack of understanding what they have in the nutrients, what's already in my water, and how I need to amend my water accordingly in order to have the right balance of nutrients during the stages of growth.
 
Skunk #1 auto early bloomer last bit of light before chop. A little over 3 months from sprouting, she is ready to provide her medicine. 12 days of water, no nutrients. Put her in the 2x2' tent for about 36 hours of darkness then going to chop her down. Not a big plant but I guess she's got over an ounce of buds. Smells very sweet. By the time she is chopped she would have spent about 14 days with little to no nutrients. Will be hanging the plant whole and as I usually do I will be slowly defoliating it as it dries, I am hoping to spend at least 10 days drying under lower temps and moderate humidity if I can achieve that.

The rest of the girls are doing good, the tent is still quite full with the 1 plant removed, I dont think the ADL's that were growing up against the wall of the tent will push out on that side but maybe. The one big ADL is getting a massive main cola, I'll post some pics next week. The auto orange bud and auto blueberry are going to get a trichome scoping this week and determine if it's time to flush or not. The ADL's are literally weeks behind. This is going to be a long and drawn out harvest.

PNxVVZD.jpg


RyfnTK9.jpg
 
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The problem is advanced is NOT a fertilizer company.
Please explain this @arb there are so many nutrients makers & products in their ranges and the new grower doesn’t know enough to know what to believe. If they’re not a fertiliser company, what are they really about? I know it’s all about making money but how can AN or any of the top companies be selling total bullshit when growers are getting good results using their stuff? None of this is rhetorical or smartass, I am genuinely asking because you seem to know what is actually needed and get kick-ass results. Wish you would write a book or recommend one that breaks it down like a community college course. “Arbulating Cannabis 101”
 
Please explain this @arb there are so many nutrients makers & products in their ranges and the new grower doesn’t know enough to know what to believe. If they’re not a fertiliser company, what are they really about? I know it’s all about making money but how can AN or any of the top companies be selling total bullshit when growers are getting good results using their stuff? None of this is rhetorical or smartass, I am genuinely asking because you seem to know what is actually needed and get kick-ass results. Wish you would write a book or recommend one that breaks it down like a community college course. “Arbulating Cannabis 101”

Ok................Will do.
 
She is californian orange (IBL) x sour diesel, I am hopeful if I can keep my thumb green, so far I'm half brown half green =/
You are brave. Plants terrify me. So much can happen between seed and harvest that is beyond our control. We also don't know what we don't know. I learn a great deal from seeing people's grows on VA, and from the advice of members. You are learning, doing beautifully in your grow, and will end up with some bud. Yay! Then you will do it again and again, and soon be advising others. This thread made me realize I am not an indoor grower, but it also is making me a better outdoor grower. You are brave to be putting it out there for others to enjoy and learn from. Thank you for that.
 

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